Planing or trueing up boards - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default Planing or trueing up boards

Would it be feasible to use the router table to true up a board or even plane it to a certain thickness? My thought would be to leave around 1/8 of an inch on each side to keep the piece from tipping and then continue shaving it 1/16" or so deep from side to side with a 1 inch bottom cleaning bit moving the fence around 7/8" for each pass until it is true or planed to the thickness desired. Then using my plunge router to shave off the two 1/8" guides or saw them off depending on my usage.

I have a Ridgid 2930 plunge router that I can't install the bars required to construct a ski. The guide rails only fit on one side of the base rather than going from one side to the other as some routers do. My idea is to build a square acrylic 3/8" thick base plate and use a square block of UHMW on each corner to run 1/2" stainless rods through with a locking mechanism to hold the router in place during each pass. Now then that I have thrown this idea out I would still like to use the router table idea also if it is like I asked, "Is it feasible"?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Bee View Post
Would it be feasible to use the router table to true up a board or even plane it to a certain thickness? My thought would be to leave around 1/8 of an inch on each side to keep the piece from tipping and then continue shaving it 1/16" or so deep from side to side with a 1 inch bottom cleaning bit moving the fence around 7/8" for each pass until it is true or planed to the thickness desired. Then using my plunge router to shave off the two 1/8" guides or saw them off depending on my usage.

I have a Ridgid 2930 plunge router that I can't install the bars required to construct a ski. The guide rails only fit on one side of the base rather than going from one side to the other as some routers do. My idea is to build a square acrylic 3/8" thick base plate and use a square block of UHMW on each corner to run 1/2" stainless rods through with a locking mechanism to hold the router in place during each pass. Now then that I have thrown this idea out I would still like to use the router table idea also if it is like I asked, "Is it feasible"?
Hi Ken - I guess you could do that on a table. My guess is you would run out of fence travel pretty quickly. You don't really need skiis either. One of the members here built a sort of gantry thing that the router rode on instead of suspending it from the guide holes. Here's a link to some posts with some pic's. The members handle is "soapdish". You can also search the members and get more links
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...tml#post207073

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Ken - I guess you could do that on a table. My guess is you would run out of fence travel pretty quickly. You don't really need skiis either. One of the members here built a sort of gantry thing that the router rode on instead of suspending it from the guide holes. Here's a link to some posts with some pic's. The members handle is "soapdish". You can also search the members and get more links
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...tml#post207073
Hi John...I doubt that I would run out of fence travel due to the fact that it would be rare that I planed a piece over 8 inches wide and 12 to 14 inches long. The only thing I build or work on is boxes, clocks and birdhouses with the occasional jig thrown in if I see or dream up something that blows my skirt up.
The link you posted is something along the lines I had in mind to support my router also. Actually I think I got the idea from one of Bobj3's posts showing a jig he had built. As you know he comes up with a good idea every so often that is worth looking into.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 03:29 PM
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Ken, you might also look at the design of the Woodhaven commercially-available planing sled:

Amazon.com: Woodhaven 3000 27" Planing Sled: Home Improvement

While the surfaces will still need work after router-planing, the basic concept still works. You might also consider a stock-holding jig that could be adjusted on both horizontal axes, as well as vertically. That would allow you to correct a twist in a board, for example. Sharp screws through the jig into the end grain could hold the stock in position.

- Ralph
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 05:16 PM
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FYI - I've got the Woodhaven jig. Incorporated a cam board to secure the workpiece. Cam board is adjustable vertically a total of about an inch, maybe a bit more, haven't measured it.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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I had looked at the Woodhaven jig and thought about building one like it myself. After studying if and working out the dimensions in my mind I figure it can be done for way less than half what Woodhaven wants for it. In fact I have everything on hand except the 3 inch T-Track. For my use it wouldn't have to be longer than 18" either.

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Last edited by Ken Bee; 05-28-2011 at 06:41 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-28-2011, 07:13 PM
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The woodhaven is very flexible.. and versatile...

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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