Router table insert rings lower than table top - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router table insert rings lower than table top

I mounted my Freud FT1700 router in an MCLS phenolic plate.

I've noticed that while moving stock across the fence, often it would drop down a little as it moved across the insert rings. In fact, the leading edge of the stock will catch on the ridge between the insert ring and the table top.

Additionally, I've noticed that the plate itself isn't flat. One side is flat - the other bows down a bit. Probably 1/16". I'd understand a crown in the middle - to compensate for flexing when a router is attached - but don't understand why one side being lower than the other is ok.

Any advice on how to deal with these issues? How close should I expect the rings and the table top to be?

Last edited by jmoore65; 07-09-2011 at 07:54 AM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jmoore65 View Post
I mounted my Freud FT1700 router in an MCLS phenolic plate.

I've noticed that while moving stock across the fence, often it would drop down a little as it moved across the insert rings. In fact, the leading edge of the stock will catch on the ridge between the insert ring and the table top.

Additionally, I've noticed that the plate itself isn't flat. One side is flat - the other bows down a bit. Probably 1/16". I'd understand a crown in the middle - to compensate for flexing when a router is attached - but don't understand why one side being lower than the other is ok.

Any advice on how to deal with these issues? How close should I expect the rings and the table top to be?
Hi Jim - I've got a 1700 mounted in an aluminum MLCS plate and had about the same issue with the insert rings. Actually, the rings weren't a consistant thickness all the way around, plus, the rebate they sit in wasn't a consistant depth all the way around. I ended up shimming the rebate in the plate until I got all the rings to make an acceptable fit. Not perfect, but one I could live with.

John Schaben

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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John - what did you use for shim material?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 09:50 AM
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Hi

A little less down presser may help with the error or use longer stock..

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 11:48 AM
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John - what did you use for shim material?
I used plastic shim stock. You should be able to get various sizes of brass or platic shim stock from auto supply stores. Especially ones catering to engine rebuilders.


Another thing I considered before I found the shim stock was drilling and taping 3 or 4 holes for 6-32 machine screws. run them in from the bottom as height adjusters. Kind of a PIA as you would need to remove the router from the plate to get them adjusted but may be a better solution. Shims are kinda iffy as far as keeping them in place. I used epoxy and need to redo it ever so often

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Last edited by jschaben; 07-09-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jmoore65 View Post
I mounted my Freud FT1700 router in an MCLS phenolic plate.

I've noticed that while moving stock across the fence, often it would drop down a little as it moved across the insert rings. In fact, the leading edge of the stock will catch on the ridge between the insert ring and the table top.

Additionally, I've noticed that the plate itself isn't flat. One side is flat - the other bows down a bit. Probably 1/16". I'd understand a crown in the middle - to compensate for flexing when a router is attached - but don't understand why one side being lower than the other is ok.

Any advice on how to deal with these issues? How close should I expect the rings and the table top to be?
My first reaction to the opening post is that the router plate is defective. How long have you had it? Is returning it a possiblity.

I have learned routering from the Router Workshop and the RouterForums, so my opinion is that leveling screws, shims, etc. are not needed. The recess in the table should be as deep as the plate is thick, with a tolerance small enough that workpieces do not catch, and pressure on the side of the workpiece away from the router bit does not cause any change in the height of the side in contact with the router bit. Likewise, the router rings, which the Router Workshop does not use, should by implication be level with the plate with the same tolerances as the table-plate interface. There should be nothing that causes the workpiece to catch.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2011, 03:45 PM
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John - what did you use for shim material?
tape works as well. I use packing tape to get the table insert on the scrollsaw flush with the table.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the idea. I made some progress resolving my flatness problem.

First, I realized I was testing flatness wrong. If I place the straightedges across the middle of the table I see the same small gap on either side. This looks more like a slight crown than a warped plate.

Second, I used some tape and shimmed up one side of the insert ring so no more catches.

However, the insert ring is not flat. It slopes inward quite a bit. So I'm looking at getting a replacement.

Finally, one of the mounting holes was drilled slightly off and when I tightened the screws down hard I heard a small "snap" and noticed plate had bowed. I elongated the errant hole and did not tighten that screw too hard. This time, the router plate did not deform.

Last edited by jmoore65; 07-10-2011 at 09:52 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 01:06 PM
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Thanks for the idea. I made some progress resolving my flatness problem.

First, I realized I was testing flatness wrong. If I place the straightedges across the middle of the table I see the same small gap on either side. This looks more like a slight crown than a warped plate.

Second, I used some tape and shimmed up one side of the insert ring so no more catches.

Hover, the insert ring is not flat. It slopes sinward quite a bit. So I'm looking at getting a replacement.
Hi Jim - The ones on my Aluminum plate were about 3/32" thick and I was able to find some clear plastic to make some extras of my own.

John Schaben

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Do inserts need to be clear? Could I use MDF or hardboard?
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