Problem Fitting cutter In Router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default Problem Fitting cutter In Router

I have a Dewalt 625 router set in a Triton router table. This is the first time I've fitted a cutter into the collett nut. I fitted it in as far as it would go, then tightened up the nut. I followed the instructions in the Dewalt manual. The cutter is nowhere near the top of the router table. I don't seem to be able to adjust the depth any more. I read 3/4 of the cutter shank should be held securely in the collet, I fitted it all the way in, I loosened the collet nut, but now I can't remove the cutter. I took care and tried with a pair of pliers, no luck.
Cheers.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 02:54 PM
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Hi Peter

Firstly, can you get the collet and cutter out of the router? The type of collet used on a DW625 has a second "hard" point as you unscrew it where it seems to almost lock then if you keep turning it eventually releases.

The design of collet used on a DW625 needs to be "clicked" into the collet nut - the outer end of the collet is sprung and is held in the nose by it's own spring action and the internally machined ledge. Once clicked together the face of the collet is flush with the face of the nut and it takes some effort to separate the two items. I generally drift mine out with a length of dowel rod

As to the cutter, I don't think you shouldn't install a cutter to absolute full depth in the collet. I always back mine out by a couple of millimetres or (if the shank is short) ensure that the top of the cutter is at least 5mm clear of the nut (so the fillet at the bottom of the shank doesn't damage the collet or cause the bit to jam in the collet).

If you still can't get the cutter high enough on your Triton router table you may need to invest in a collet extender such as the excellent Axcaliber one by Axminster Power Tools which has the advantage of using high quality multi-slot spring collets which are a world away in accuracy and quality from some of the more second rate one and two slot collets offered by many of the competition

Regards

Phil

Last edited by Phil P; 07-18-2011 at 05:03 PM. Reason: clarification of collet workings
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Phil,
Thanks for that. " The type of collet used on a DW625 has a second "hard" point as you unscrew it where it seems to almost lock then if you keep turning it eventually releases. " I will have a go at unlocking it,

" As to the cutter, I don't think you shouldn't install a cutter to absolute full depth in the collet. I always back mine out by a couple of millimetres or (if the shank is short) ensure that the top of the cutter is at least 5mm clear of the nut (so the fillet at the bottom of the shank doesn't damage the collet or cause the bit to jam in the collet "
OK, I have read should leave 5mm? gap so heat isn't transfered from cutter to armature of router.
Have ordered the collet extender from Ebay, best price around. Will have a go at getting cutter out on Tuesday, will get back to you and let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Peter.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 05:12 PM
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Hi Peter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
OK, I have read should leave 5mm? gap so heat isn't transfered from cutter to armature of router.
Not sure about that Peter. The main thing I watch out for is that the fillet where the shank meets the body of the router is well clear of the collet. Pushing the cutter in too far (so that the fillet is inside the collet) causes permanent damage to the collet, even if you only do it once

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
Have ordered the collet extender from Ebay, best price around.
Good luck with it. Collet extenders can cause a bit of extra vibration, so best to be aware of that. Even so it shouldn't be too much more than without it installed unless you have a bad one. BTW, mind if I ask how much you paid?

A point about cutters if you weren't aware. The more "professional" a cutter is the longer its' shank......... at least in the Trend range. The low-cost kits have relatively short shanks, the green Craft-Pro are longer, the Trade range longer still and the professional ones are the longest of them all (from comparisons in a few instances). Obviously the longer the shank the more suitable the cutter is for router table use.

Good luck!

Regards

Phil
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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Missed you yesterday. Ebay £32.50 buy it now inc free delivery. Will look at router cutter later on today and get back to you then.
Cheers,
Peter.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
Hi Phil,
Thanks for that. " The type of collet used on a DW625 has a second "hard" point as you unscrew it where it seems to almost lock then if you keep turning it eventually releases. " I will have a go at unlocking it,

" As to the cutter, I don't think you shouldn't install a cutter to absolute full depth in the collet. I always back mine out by a couple of millimetres or (if the shank is short) ensure that the top of the cutter is at least 5mm clear of the nut (so the fillet at the bottom of the shank doesn't damage the collet or cause the bit to jam in the collet "
OK, I have read should leave 5mm? gap so heat isn't transfered from cutter to armature of router.
Have ordered the collet extender from Ebay, best price around. Will have a go at getting cutter out on Tuesday, will get back to you and let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Peter.
Hi Phil,
See my other post for best price of cutter, I think I've found this 2nd hard point on the nut, it resists anymore turning, I've exerted quite a lot of force on it, does not seem to want to budge anymore, I don't want to cause any damage?

I have a set of Silverline cutters, comes with a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 18mm straight cutters. Thursday I'm buying a Wickes 1500W router, I want to use this to practise plunge routing mortise holes on scrap wood. I understand I drill a hole to start off the straight cutter,the wood drill bits Wickes have are different sizes to the cutters, could you advise please?
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Regards,
Peter.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
I think I've found this 2nd hard point on the nut, it resists anymore turning, I've exerted quite a lot of force on it, does not seem to want to budge anymore, I don't want to cause any damage?
Hi Peter

Are you sure you're turning it the right way (anti-clockwise)? I've never had too many problems with this router, so I'm now beginning to wonder if you've got a crossed thread there. It's probably better if you contact me on the phone as there are a couple of queries I have here. If interested, please PM me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
I have a set of Silverline cutters, comes with a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 18mm straight cutters. Thursday I'm buying a Wickes 1500W router, I want to use this to practise plunge routing mortise holes on scrap wood. I understand I drill a hole to start off the straight cutter,the wood drill bits Wickes have are different sizes to the cutters, could you advise please?
If your router cutters have plunge centres there is no need to pre-drill. Just make your cuts in progressively deeper passes, say 3 to 4mm a time, clearing out the waste from time to time (vacuum cleaner). If you are going to mortise with a router it is much safer to have two fences (one either side) and longer fence rods. The DW625 uses 10mm fence rods; 10mm diam. ground silver steel rod can be obtained in 1 metre lengths from most engineering suppliers for under a tenner (£10). That will make two 500mm fence rods with a bit of sawing and filing of the ends. A second DW625 fence can be had on eBay for £25 to £35.

As an aside Festool now do a superb self-centring accessory base (the #495246) for mortising, but it only works on their OF1400 and OF2200 routers as far as I know (although it should be possible to fit it to any 1/2in plunge router). The price is the usual Festool in orbit figure, too - £120 or so I suppose there's always Tage Frid's mortising jig as included in his excellent books; Highland hardware in the USA have posted it on their web site, here

Not sure I'd buy a Wickes router if I had a DW625 - I'd probably take the deWalt to my local deWalt dealer and get him to look at it first

Regards

Phil

Last edited by Phil P; 07-20-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again,
Thanks for the helpful tips. I'm sure I've been turning nut the right way, will check again Thursday morning and let you know. I don't think the cutters have plunge centres, can you give me a link to a picture of one that does, so I can verify?
I'm getting the Wickes router as it saves all the hassle of removing the DW625 from the table and putting it back. Fitting was not so straightforward in the Triton, but got there eventually with help from forum members I do hope I've not messed up the Dewalt.
Cheers.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 06:53 PM
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I don't think the cutters have plunge centres, can you give me a link to a picture of one that does, so I can verify?
Hi Peter

They're easy enough to spot (in fact most straight cutters these days are plunge cut ones). The cutters either have the two carbide tips arranged so they meet in the centre, or they have a third piece of V-ground carbide brazed onto the underside of the cutter. Simplest way to check is just to try doing a plunge cut - if the bits aren't designed for the purpose they'll refuse to go much more than a couple of millimetres in and when you remove the router there will be a distinctive ring with a raised pip left standing up in the middle. To be honest I've only ever found non-plunge bits in cheap sets (at least in recent years). Almost all the reputable (European) manufactuers/vendors sell only a limited range of them - and they clearly mark them as non-plunge

Edit: Just an additional thought about mortising. It's possible to make a very simple jig using a piece of flat stock and two dowels for shallow mortising which will self-centre on the stock. Of course there's the Trend version which you can buy, but I've just found an article on the net describing a really cheap home-made version. Simple to make and much cheaper than the second fence approach. Or the Trend jig.

Regards

Phil

Last edited by Phil P; 07-20-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 08:24 PM
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" (in fact most straight cutters these days are plunge cut ones) " = Not the norm in the states

MLCS Plunge Cutting Straight Router Bits

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ge-router.html

========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil P View Post
Hi Peter

They're easy enough to spot (in fact most straight cutters these days are plunge cut ones). The cutters either have the two carbide tips arranged so they meet in the centre, or they have a third piece of V-ground carbide brazed onto the underside of the cutter. Simplest way to check is just to try doing a plunge cut - if the bits aren't designed for the purpose they'll refuse to go much more than a couple of millimetres in and when you remove the router there will be a distinctive ring with a raised pip left standing up in the middle. To be honest I've only ever found non-plunge bits in cheap sets (at least in recent years). Almost all the reputable (European) manufactuers/vendors sell only a limited range of them - and they clearly mark them as non-plunge

Edit: Just an additional thought about mortising. It's possible to make a very simple jig using a piece of flat stock and two dowels for shallow mortising which will self-centre on the stock. Of course there's the Trend version which you can buy, but I've just found an article on the net describing a really cheap home-made version. Simple to make and much cheaper than the second fence approach. Or the Trend jig.

Regards

Phil



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