Seeking feedback for my router table plan - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Question Seeking feedback for my router table plan

Howdy, All!

I want to build a simple router table for an old Rockler lift that I got from Craigslist. Planning to use MDF and laminate the top, add a 4" port for my DC and a couple t-tracks. Can you kindly check the attached sketches for any major gaffs? I'm mostly concerned about the airflow - want to collect as much dust as possible, but not starve DC for air.

Thanks a ton! / Alex
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 05:12 AM
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Looks as though you'll pull plenty of air and dust with this.



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 10:00 AM
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Alex, you can eliminate the fence tracks by building a fence with built in clamps or using C clamps.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastberserker View Post
Howdy, All!

I want to build a simple router table for an old Rockler lift that I got from Craigslist. Planning to use MDF and laminate the top, add a 4" port for my DC and a couple t-tracks. Can you kindly check the attached sketches for any major gaffs? I'm mostly concerned about the airflow - want to collect as much dust as possible, but not starve DC for air.

Thanks a ton! / Alex
Hi Alex - normally I'm a proponent of miter tracks but in this instance I think you can eliminate it. At 11-3/4" from the bit centerline, I don't believe it would be of much value. JMHO

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 10:37 AM
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Hi Alex

This is just my 2 cents..

I see some errors in your plans, you want the hole in the plate in the center most of the chips will not go down the small hole and many times you will want more room for the fence to side back from of the bit hole.

Most of the chips will fall down to the bottom of the box so to say you want a way to suck them up at that point not from the top of the box and over a board..

That's why many use a tee fixture on the vac. system to get the chips from the box and the fence port all at one time..I'm not a real big fan of putting the router in a air tight box, if you look at most wood cutting equipment the motor is out in the open so to speak...heat will kill most motors.. and most have a built in fan to pull in CLEAN air to keep it cool to a point..

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastberserker View Post
Howdy, All!

I want to build a simple router table for an old Rockler lift that I got from Craigslist. Planning to use MDF and laminate the top, add a 4" port for my DC and a couple t-tracks. Can you kindly check the attached sketches for any major gaffs? I'm mostly concerned about the airflow - want to collect as much dust as possible, but not starve DC for air.

Thanks a ton! / Alex



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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Alex, you can eliminate the fence tracks by building a fence with built in clamps or using C clamps.
Sweet! Thanks, Mike, I like this idea!

One question: as I understand it, the lamination is supposed to be done on both sides to avoid wrapping. How do I clam the fence to laminate? It's slippery, which is why I want to have it in the first place
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
I see some errors in your plans, you want the hole in the plate in the center most of the chips will not go down the small hole and many times you will want more room for the fence to side back from of the bit hole.
I see. I guess if I drop t-tracks and go with Mike's clamp-on fence suggestion, I can set up the fence in any way I want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Most of the chips will fall down to the bottom of the box so to say you want a way to suck them up at that point not from the top of the box and over a board..

That's why many use a tee fixture on the vac. system to get the chips from the box and the fence port all at one time..I'm not a real big fan of putting the router in a air tight box, if you look at most wood cutting equipment the motor is out in the open so to speak...heat will kill most motors.. and most have a built in fan to pull in CLEAN air to keep it cool to a point..
I must say I love wood, but I really *hate* the dust. It's personal. My father and a few of my relatives and friends did serious damage to their health working with wood and the like products without adequate precautions. So, I'm afraid the router will have to live in the box and breath whatever air that DC sucks through, which at 4" and 2 HP, I gather, should be a plenty.

As for the fence port, thanks, I will definitely go for that! The less dust in the air - the better.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 11:29 AM
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There are a number of inexpensive devices available for pulling dust from a table mounted router and these would be a better route than boxing in the router.
The best one I have seen so far is the Dust Router by Keen.
It is a kit that lets you capture the dust below the table and at the fence.

I have given serious consideration to putting my DC outside the shop in it's own closet to cut down on noise and any dust that happens to escape the bag though that is little as my DC filters to 1 micron. I have just been concerned over how the moisture outside might affect the DC and the filter bag.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 12:32 PM
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Hi Alex.
With plan you have drawn up the one change I would make is to eliminate the inside wall so your dust collection is at bottom. The t-track is fine for fence adjustment if your happy with it. If you don't like the idea of using 2 clamps to hold your fence on there are other ways to attach it to the table. You could make a pivot fence with your setup & eliminate the two t-tracks. Your fence could pivot on the right side. You could then use a clamp to clamp the fence to the top overhang on the left or build it into the table. The fence does not need to be parallel with the top as all settings are referenced off the center of a round bit. The track in front is useful for attaching feather boards. I would have one in the fence for same purpose as well as using stop blocks. Just make it tall enough to accommodate for them. The t-track for these items helps to reduce the clutter of more clamps to hold these in place.

I prefer to have the router in a cabinet as it cuts down on noise & keeps most chips contained for dust collection. Manufactures have done more research than any of us have & if it were a problem they would have a disclaimer voiding the warranty. They don't! Many new router models are coming out with features to be used in router tables & they know that some of these will be mounted inside a cabinet. Even the larger tables saws have the motor mounted inside an enclosure.

Your table is not an air tight system (which is bad) as you have inlets for fresh air in the front. With dust collection hooked up & fresh air inlets you create a venturi effect which increases the air flow around the inside of the enclosure & router. While a router mounted in an open table design is fine it does not have the same amount of circulating air around it as there in no vacuum present around it.

As suggested I would change the vacuum location to the bottom instead of the top but you could just eliminate that inside wall as it serves no purpose. Add one at the fence behind the bit & you will pick up most chips. This also keeps the bit area from clogging up. You can also just eliminate the front & back & convert it to an open table design. This is just my 3.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 09-28-2011 at 12:50 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 04:56 PM
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Alex, simply cut a piece of router mat and glue it to the bottom clamp face. You can find rolls of this type of material at a dollar store; it's thinner than a routing mat but works just fine. I will get you a close up shot of the clamp end ASAP.

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