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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Question Jointer fence

Some time ago,I made a rough jointer fence which I thought could be improved.

I made up two split fences out of 18mm MDF, slotted the grooves for the 1/4" bolts and applied a layer of Formica to one of the fences with contact cement to provide the offset.

On testing, I found the Formica did not provide enough offset.

Question to those who have made or use a jointer fence on the router table: "what material do you use to set the offset between the infeed and outfeed fence?"
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 10:43 PM
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Hi James

It can be anything you want to use ,you don't need to stick it to the front side of the out feed fence, just slip it in behind the face board and the Alum. fence, I sometimes use 1/8" MDF as a spacer, to step it out.. but that can be to much sometimes.


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Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
Some time ago,I made a rough jointer fence which I thought could be improved.

I made up two split fences out of 18mm MDF, slotted the grooves for the 1/4" bolts and applied a layer of Formica to one of the fences with contact cement to provide the offset.

On testing, I found the Formica did not provide enough offset.

Question to those who have made or use a jointer fence on the router table: "what material do you use to set the offset between the infeed and outfeed fence?"



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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 04:33 AM
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I have had two pieces of worktop edging which is a sort of formica, and tuck one at each end of the second half of the split fence, personally I have always found this to be enough.



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 06:42 AM
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I set up the router table so the bit protrudes from the fence the amount I wish the offset to be. I then take a straight piece of wood and run it half way across the bit.
I now have a solid fence that is X mm wider on one side than the other.
1 or 2mm is usually enough for most of my jointing tasks.

Basically the same as this
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 10:04 AM
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Started with Formica, but found it too thick over time!
Now ~.020", done with offsetting the fence faces. Both halves of fence = bare faced (waxed) black walnut.
At .020", 5 quick passes is nearly an 1/8". A stick that needs an 1/8" worth of jointing is a crummy stick or a very long one.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 12:04 PM
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On my setup, it was easier to change the infeed fence. It is 1/64" thinner so that is what I take off and so far, it seems to be plenty.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 01:04 PM
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That's true. The outfeed fence should be level with the bit. It's the infeed that determines depth of cut.
Quillman, I'm working with kiln dried and 100 year old air dried oak to make window frames at the moment. I don't have a jointer or planer, so the router is doing this work for me. Yes, some of the wonky bits of wood are over 1mtr(1000mm)long, what ever that is in medieval measurements.
Oh, I should say that so far it's working ok for me, but life would be a lot easier if i could buy a combination jointer planer here for under 500 euros.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 08:49 PM
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I have a Grizzly table with a 2 piece fence. I loosen up the knobs on the left half and stick a steel rule about 1/16" thick in between the aluminum support and the fence. Looks goofy but works fine. I'm sure there's a hundred better ways to accomplish the offset needed, but I like simple.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 09:13 PM
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james,
I have used 2 materials, the first was a scrap piece of laminate. It sounds like you tried that already. The second were two scrap piece of sheet metal. The sheet metal was good when I needed something thinner than the laminate.
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