Oak park box jig on Bosch 1171 table - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default Oak park box jig on Bosch 1171 table

Has anyone mounted the Oak Park box joint jig on a bosch 1171 router table? It's certainly not a simple fit with plenty of area to drill through the top. So, I thought I'd ask before drilling new holes in the jig.

Any thoughts or photo's appreciated.

Regis
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:53 PM
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Hi Regis

No need to drill any holes in your top see the link below how to use it with just clamps,see the bottom of the web page below.

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System
===
Quote:
Originally Posted by RegisG View Post
Has anyone mounted the Oak Park box joint jig on a bosch 1171 router table? It's certainly not a simple fit with plenty of area to drill through the top. So, I thought I'd ask before drilling new holes in the jig.

Any thoughts or photo's appreciated.

Regis



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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 01:01 AM
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Regis, It is easy to install the Oak Park jigs to your table. Chuck up the 1/4" bit, set the 1/4" jig over the bit so the bit is roughly centered in the jig opening. Place the 1/4" set up bar next to the bit, push the jig so the set up bar is snug between the bit and fence, drill the two holes in your table. Follow the instructions that come with the jigs for complete set up. The jig can be at any angle on your table. Following this process you end up with five 1/4" holes to allow you to perform all the functions the jigs are capable of as seen in the photo below. These holes will have no effect on using your table.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Regis

No need to drill any holes in your top see the link below how to use it with just clamps,see the bottom of the web page below.

===
The Oak Park is not as long as the Precision Jointery so that does not work. If I run it front to back, I'll need to drill new cutter hole in the jig (possible), then I can clamp. Wish I would have see the Precision Jointery before getting the one from Oak Park.

Thanks,
Regis
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Regis, It is easy to install the Oak Park jigs to your table. Chuck up the 1/4" bit, set the 1/4" jig over the bit so the bit is roughly centered in the jig opening. Place the 1/4" set up bar next to the bit, push the jig so the set up bar is snug between the bit and fence, drill the two holes in your table. Follow the instructions that come with the jigs for complete set up. The jig can be at any angle on your table. Following this process you end up with five 1/4" holes to allow you to perform all the functions the jigs are capable of as seen in the photo below. These holes will have no effect on using your table.
Mike,
It looks like that will work if I put the jig at about a 45 degree angle to miss holes and slots for other guides. Or cut new cutter hole and mount front to back.

After looking it over, I may just make one that fits better.

Thanks,
Regis
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 01:51 PM
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Hi Regis

Many ways to skin that cat just mount it to some 1/4" MDF and than clamp it in place. I wish I did that on one of router tables once the holes are drilled they are in place forever , it's true you can plug them but holes are holes

New cutter hole, no big deal on that one I have two sets of the jigs and one set has two holes in it..it clamps in place with tee track on the table..

Note the two holes in the OP fixture.

Just one more Note,,in the MLCS video you will see him hold the part down on top of the fixture/jig with one finger DON'T do this if the bit comes free it's coming up out of the board and right into your finger, make a hold down block to hold it down and in place, you can use one of the many types of push blocks (rubber pad type) they now sale but it's best to make your own with a small hook on it or to say buzz off some of the stock and you will have a big rabbet edge block , you can also just glue on 1/4" MDF to the block for the big rabbet edge ,better safe than sorry..
====

Quote:
Originally Posted by RegisG View Post
The Oak Park is not as long as the Precision Jointery so that does not work. If I run it front to back, I'll need to drill new cutter hole in the jig (possible), then I can clamp. Wish I would have see the Precision Jointery before getting the one from Oak Park.

Thanks,
Regis


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Last edited by bobj3; 10-12-2011 at 07:40 PM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Bob,
Thanks for the picture. I think I will just put a 2nd cutter hole and give the jig a try.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 07:54 PM
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Hi Regis

You're Welcome how about a picture or two once you get some done
Just a note , you don't need 10 posted items to upload pictures.

===

Quote:
Originally Posted by RegisG View Post
Bob,
Thanks for the picture. I think I will just put a 2nd cutter hole and give the jig a try.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2011, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Regis

You're Welcome how about a picture or two once you get some done
Just a note , you don't need 10 posted items to upload pictures.

===
Bob,
I decided to just clamp on to try temporarily and here's a picture so you can see why I asked the original question. I will have to bolt/screw it down because the clamps interfer with using a guide to keep it square. I made that little block to get me by on these test cuts.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2011, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Photo of temp setup

Bob,
I temporarily clamped the Oak park jig to my table to give it a try. Here's photo so you can see why I originally asked. I will have to bolt it down because the clamps interfere. I cut a small guide block to keep things square.

I have a ways to go getting everything working and will seperately post my dovetail problem.

Regis
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