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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help!! Need Advice!!!

Hi,

New to this site and having some problems with routing a piece of wood. I am making a crib for my grandchild who will be born in Dec out of maple. The legs have a circuliar top. Made templates and used a flush trim bit, bearings on top and bottom, to rout everything down. Everything was good until I got to the tops.

I don't have a lot of experience with routing so I was going extremly slow around the circuliar top. All the sudden the bit caught and half the top flew off. I tried running half on the bottom bearing and half on the top. Same outcome. After two flew off I went to the 12" sander and did it that way.

Is there a technique to do this, another bit I should have been using or was the sander the correct option. Be waiting to hear from all the experienced router people so I don't make this mistake again.

Thanks,

Brian
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 08:52 PM
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Hi Brian:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

A common cause for the ejection of the work from the bit is routing in the wrong direction. A "climb cut" has a tendency to grab the work piece and throw it.

Also, make sure you are using a starting "pin" to ease the work piece into the bit.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 09:50 PM
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I agree with Cassandra. If you are facing the template you should be working from left to right. You should also have the piece rough trimmed to just slightly larger than finished size.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 10:47 PM
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Brian, Did you start at the middle of the arc and cut down the grain, flip your work piece and cut the other side of the arc?

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I thought I was leading the wood correctly, I was using a pin and there wasn't but a little more than an 1/8" left to rout. What I will try is getting some junk wood and working with it until I can get the technique down. It was just a little unnerving when I saw a $30 dollar piece of wood split like that. I was able to glue the pieces back on and you really can't notice but it wasn't real pleasant. Thanks for your help and advice.

Brian
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Brian, Did you start at the middle of the arc and cut down the grain, flip your work piece and cut the other side of the arc?
Hi Mike,
I didn't see your response when I replied back to the other two. There was a video on how to use the bit from where I bought it and thats exactly what I did on the long portion. I am confused on how to lead the circuliar part in. I started and it was going good and then wham it split. Flipped it and still the same thing. As I said in the other post I need to practice on some scrap. Thanks for the suggestion,

Brian
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 11:46 AM
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When cutting circuar pieces, the wood grain orientation to the bit will change. Looking at the attached pictuire, if the grain goes toward the outside, the wood will be less like ly to split. It the grain goes toward the center, the wood will much more likely to split. Some wood species are more prone to splitting that others. To remedy this, it;s sometimes necessary to do a climb cut.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 01:24 PM
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I agree rout left to right and make small cuts about 1/8" at a time especially when starting

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 01:38 PM
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Look at the diagram Robert posted. If you are using a table mounted router start in the middle and cut to the right. If you are working free hand start in the middle and cut to the left. Once you have this done flip the piece and repeat the process to finish your edge.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 01:57 PM
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Hi

The "climb cut" works well it will push the stock back into the stock BUT you must take and make very small cuts and always use a hold down block the rubber pad on the bottom works well...of the hold down push block...type..

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