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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Default Jointing long pieces

I have a small bench top router table, and am finding that when I try to shave the edge off a 5' long piece of redwood, the middle is bowed out a little. Does anyone have an idea why this might be? Or tips on keeping it from happening? I apply pressure on the out feed fence, and my fence is square.

Any ideas or tips are greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 09:47 AM
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Try attaching a known straight edge along the side of the board, and running the straight edge against a flush trim bit bearing. The board may simply be following its own shape along your table and fence.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 12:12 PM
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Hello and welcome! There are a number of things that can cause this! Does the router bit have a bearing on top? It sounds like You are cutting the end grain. What router, table, and bits are You using? Is the slot in the table and the rail of the tool nice and tight,no side play? All these things can help Us give You a better answer, I am sorry, I don't always get the name of the tool I am talking about correct, Memory problem If You can tell us more, Some one brighter than I can give a shot at answering

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Good tip Roger. I'll give it a go this weekend.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 01:10 PM
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Ir you are not already doing so, make sure you are using featherboards on both the in and out feed sides. Also you might consider clamping some plywood or MDF aux fences to the table. They can be longer than your existing fence and thus help you control the boards. You may also consider attaching along temp top to the table.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I've tried a straight bit with a bearing on top, and a straight 2 flute bit without a bearing. The grain runs along the length of the board, so I don't *think* I'm in danger of cutting the end grain. Everything appears to be tight, although I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "rail of the tool".

It's a Bosch 1617 router, and the bits are Freud and Whiteside. The router table is a BenchDog Pro Contractor. In spite of not being as far along with my project as I hoped, I'm having a lot of fun and learning tons.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Being new at this I'm having a hard time envisioning auxiliary fences. Are you talking about clamping something to the table that extends the existing in feed and out feed fences, making them longer, or something altogether different? And by temp top are you talking about extending the existing top to make it larger? I'm already fishing around for something I can use to do that.

Thanks for your help everyone.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 05:51 PM
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I am glad that You are having fun, and learning. What I was talking about when I mentioned your rail was the miter jig running along the slot meant for it. the gage can some times wiggle in the slot. Sounds like Your doing things as You should. It is possible that the short table is causing Your board to come out with a curve, of imperfection. Hope that explains A little more.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 02:20 AM
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Are you using a jointing fence ? You don't mention that you are, so I would say that's the problem. Your outfeed fence needs to be sticking out 2-3mm more than your infeed side. The outfeed side also needs to be inline with the cutter.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 09:54 AM
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Janet,
You are correct that I meant for you to extend the top and fences. You should be able to simply clamp or bolt a couple feet of MDF or Ply ripped to 5 inches or so to the fence. I would not go much more than 3 feet long on either side as it will become wobbly and heavy.
If you are jointing a lot of material you might consider screwing a 5 " high fence on either side of the bit 90 degrees to a aux base. Drill a hole for the bit to come though the base and clamp the whole jig to the table. Be certain to glue some laminate to the out-feed side of the fence and flush your bearing to the laminate.
The advantage to this is your base can be much longer than you router table as can the fence This will help you control long pieces of material. Again be certain you are using feather boards on both sides of the blade and in front to keep the wood down to the top and against the fence.
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