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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router Table question

In all the videos why is the hole in the router table for the router on the left side?
I would think that a right side hole would give more support on the left side to larger pieces being routed. For router setup the router would be on the left and still have plenty of room....????
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 07:07 AM
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Hi Bob. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

The short answer to your question is that is just doesn't matter where the router is mounted in your table.. it comes down to personal preference. The bit is round, so it will cut in any direction. Of course, when using a fence, stock moves from the right to the left across the face of the bit.

Most pieces being routed are small, so you don't need a lot of surface area for support. For those times you are routing large pieces, you can turn the fence around and use the full table to support your work. This is also one of the advantages of using basic c-clamps to hold your fence in place and not t-track.. the fence can go ANYWHERE on the table and be secured by the clamps.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 07:29 AM
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Also if it is on the left side of the table and you need more room?? Work from the frount of the table and put fence on the right side of the bit which would give you more room. I have the router work shop table and don't need T track's . I use the hole in frount of the bit with a pin now this pin get's you on the bit and the beiring keeps the work piece rolling on the bit and you don't need a fence. Their are lot's of way's to use thr router table with out all the T track's stuff and the fence of most router tables which i find linit's the use of the table. Go get Bob and Ricks cd's and watch you you will learn LOT'S about a table. They advitise at the top and i belive at the botton of this web page. The most important thing is feed the work piece into the rotation of the bit reguardless of which side you stand on .

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 11:34 PM
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Bob, the table design is by Bob Rosendahl of the Router Workshop. Bob has many years of experience and found that this was the most practical set up. Many of Bob's designs have been copied and are for sale at places like Rockler and MLCS. If you are routing something longer than 4' you can set up stands for support the same as you would for a table saw. Not many jobs require this. If you want a table for production routing of mouldings then a longer table is the best choice. Other than that this table will handle just about anything you throw at it.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thnk you three for your replies!! Guess I never thought about using the router from the front side. My c-clamps are like those on the videos, except I made my own using a large 3" clamp and epoxying a dowel drilled for the clamp screw and a rubber table leg tip. I also drilled thru the dowel so I can use the cross pin from the clamp.
Thanks guys.........Bob
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 07:32 PM
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Welcome Bob, there is a ton of knowledge here and I learn something everyday

K.I.S.S.- Keep It Super Simple
For I Am Confussion at its Best
Don't fix it if it Ain't broken
Makin sawdust now in South Louisiana
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