Question On Using Oak Park Spacer Box Jig - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Question On Using Oak Park Spacer Box Jig

Is there a formula for using the 1/4,3/8,1/2 jigs that come in the kit...do I have to use 1/4,3/8,1/2inch thick wood only with these jigs and the height does it have to be the same as the width..eg I might want 1/4 teeth for the 1/2 width wood..can I do that.for those of you that have used these jigs I need your help so I know what can and cannot be done...thanks alot
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 03:12 PM
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Hi Jerry

Yes it can be done, just need to reset the height of the bit.

Here's a web page link check out the bottom of the web page for some good videos on the jigs.

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

OR see below

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKz8D...layer_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teiTC...layer_embedded

==
Quote:
Originally Posted by alittlebit View Post
Is there a formula for using the 1/4,3/8,1/2 jigs that come in the kit...do I have to use 1/4,3/8,1/2inch thick wood only with these jigs and the height does it have to be the same as the width..eg I might want 1/4 teeth for the 1/2 width wood..can I do that.for those of you that have used these jigs I need your help so I know what can and cannot be done...thanks alot



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Last edited by bobj3; 12-15-2011 at 03:15 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 03:23 PM
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Jerry, you can use any thickness of wood with the jigs. I suggest that you get a piece of 4" x 4" wood 8" long to use as a push block. Set up your 1/4" jig with a 1/4" bit adjusted 1/4" away from the fence and slightly over 1/4" above the table. Hold the block against the fence and run it completely over the bit. Now mark the top: "1/4" cut with this side up." Change your set up to the 3/8" jig and bit, rotate the block 90, make the cut all the way through and mark "3/8" cut with this side up." Repeat and mark with the 1/2" jig and bit. Now you have one very stabile push block to use with each of your set ups. You will use this block when the bit height is a hair over the bit diameter. Now let say you want to use the 1/4" jig and bit with wood that is 1/2" thick. Use a different push block for this type of set up because the bit will be a hair over 1/2" high and you want the block to fully support the wood so you do not get any tear out. Think zero clearance. You can use a piece of 2" x 4" for this but I prefer the added control you get with a 4" x 4". Now for something you can not do easily with most other jigs: if you want to cut your box joints on an angle simply cut a push block on that angle and run your wood through with it.
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Last edited by Mike; 12-15-2011 at 03:27 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 03:45 PM
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Hi

Just to add a note to Mike's post, on your push block cut both ends of it, one end of the thicker stock and one end for the thinner stock, that way you can use the same push block for both parts,you can use the push block to set the bit height that way.
Pre cut the parts to the same angle as the push block it's comes right out on the button that way..

==

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
Jerry, you can use any thickness of wood with the jigs. I suggest that you get a piece of 4" x 4" wood 8" long to use as a push block. Set up your 1/4" jig with a 1/4" bit adjusted 1/4" away from the fence and slightly over 1/4" above the table. Hold the block against the fence and run it completely over the bit. Now mark the top: "1/4" cut with this side up." Change your set up to the 3/8" jig and bit, rotate the block 90, make the cut all the way through and mark "3/8" cut with this side up." Repeat and mark with the 1/2" jig and bit. Now you have one very stabile push block to use with each of your set ups. You will use this block when the bit height is a hair over the bit diameter. Now let say you want to use the 1/4" jig and bit with wood that is 1/2" thick. Use a different push block for this type of set up because the bit will be a hair over 1/2" high and you want the block to fully support the wood so you do not get any tear out. Think zero clearance. You can use a piece of 2" x 4" for this but I prefer the added control you get with a 4" x 4". Now for something you can not do easily with most other jigs: if you want to cut your box joints on an angle simply cut a push block on that angle and run your wood through with it.



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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Jerry

Yes it can be done, just need to reset the height of the bit.

Here's a web page link check out the bottom of the web page for some good videos on the jigs.

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

OR see below

MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Box Joint - YouTube
MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Rabbet / Lap Joint - YouTube

==
I wish that MLCS Joint System wasn't so expensive because I would love to have it. Actually in some ways I think it is overpriced too, even the basic kit.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 07:36 AM
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Ken, you can buy Bob Rosendahls original design of the box joint jigs while they last by clicking here. Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue There are no plans at this time for more to be made.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 07:57 AM
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Exactly right BJ! I didn't post about reversing the block for the longer cuts or cutting the work pieces on the angles because I wanted to make my description as simple as possible. As can be seen in the photos the push block for that angled clock project has the angle reversed on the opposite end so it can be used in either direction. One concept at a time until you understand how it works.

Jerry, you can also make locking rabbet joints with the jigs and sliding dovetail joints.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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thank you for all the replies...I have a better idea on how it works now...thanks to all again
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