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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default slot cutter newbie questions

Hello all,

So I am onto making the doors for my latest project and a few weeks ago I picked up a 1/4" slot cutter (3 wing) because I figured it would be faster/easier than using a 1/4" router bit or running the stiles and rails on the table saw. I have done both of those operations before but liked the bearing depth control of the slot cutter idea. So now for the newbie questions/problems. The first test piece I fed it into the bit with the end about even with the center of the bearing. That didn't last long untill the piece of wood was kicked back and out of my hands. ouch! The next piece I fed in a little further up the piece and it bottomed out on the beading and fed alright but there was a lot more resistance than other bits I have used. I was going slow in both cases but I am wondering if I was still going too fast. Router was at full speed for the first piece and about 4 out of 6 for the second.

I figured I would hang it up for the day and try again tomorrow, it is my experience that most accidents take place at the end of the day when people are tired.

So are there any tips for using slot cutters? Should I set it up with the fence and take a few passes? Should I set up the featherboards and just plow (slowly) right into the end of the stock?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 06:03 PM
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Welcome

Always move the stock from the right to the left." ◄ ◄ ◄ " and always made it in one pass with a slot cutter bit and always use a push block...if the cutter is sharp it will just plow down the board, no need for high speed, slot cutters should run at about 10,000 rpm's the norm or lower..

===




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Last edited by bobj3; 12-26-2011 at 06:38 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 06:04 PM
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Welcome to the router forum.

Thank you for joining us, Justin.

I nearly always use the fence with the slot cutter and "isolate" the bearing when using straight pieces.

What was your feed direction?

James
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Feed direction was right to left. and the cutters were angled into the piece. I.E. standing in front of the table the cutter closest to me was pointing to the right. It is a new bit from Eagle Am. so I don't question the quality much.

It did feel like it wanted to kickback like the set-up was wrong but I think it is correct.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 08:58 PM
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Hi

The only thing that comes to mind is that you have the cuter upside down on the stank..running it that way it's called a climb cut way..and it will pull the stock right out of your hands..

===

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Originally Posted by turbo6justin View Post
Feed direction was right to left. and the cutters were angled into the piece. I.E. standing in front of the table the cutter closest to me was pointing to the right. It is a new bit from Eagle Am. so I don't question the quality much.

It did feel like it wanted to kickback like the set-up was wrong but I think it is correct.



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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi

The only thing that comes to mind is that you have the cuter upside down on the stank..running it that way it's called a climb cut way..and it will pull the stock right out of your hands..

===
I wasn't paying enough attention once and did that. It smoked so bad I had to open the shop doors and let it air out for 1/2 an hour before I could go back in.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 11:11 AM
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I think what you guy's are talking about is just the cutter being installed backwards. A climb cut has to do with the direction feed of material verses the rotation of the cutter. If he was to feed material left to right that would be a climb cut because material is traveling in same direction of cutter rotation regardless of the direction the teeth on the cutter are facing.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 01:01 PM
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Hi James



==





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I think what you guy's are talking about is just the cutter being installed backwards. A climb cut has to do with the direction feed of material verses the rotation of the cutter. If he was to feed material left to right that would be a climb cut because material is traveling in same direction of cutter rotation regardless of the direction the teeth on the cutter are facing.



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Last edited by bobj3; 12-28-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 03:54 PM
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Hi

You need to rap your head around this one, if the cutter is in place upside down and you are feeding the stock from the right to the left it's called a climb cut only some router bits can be used this way, but it will give a very nice clean slot or profile ..

The bit is turning at 10,000 rpm's lets say and it can't pull the chips out of the slot quick so they pack up front and in the path of the cutter that's why you should not use the climb cutter deeper than a 1/4" deep max..

The cutter is round and at the high point of the cut the bit is trying to pull the chips out and when it can't it will burn them from the heat of the cutter..I know this is a hard to rap your head around but that's just the way it is..

I will say I do it now and than but with great care because the bit wants to push the stock away from the fence or bearing and because the chips can get out of the way it want lockup the stock up and pull it out of your hands and shoot it into the wall , it's like ripping a board the wrong way on a table saw or RAS the chips load up and grab the stock.

==
Bob.
The description you give describes a climb cut, but the direction of feeding the material right to left on a router table is not called a climb cut. My head is very well wrapped around the concept of a climb cut. Right to left would be the correct direction of feed when using a router table as the router is mounted below the material. Feeding the material left to right on a router table is climb cutting regardless of the direction the teeth are facing. A climb cut for hand a held router would place the router on top of your material & moving the router right to left. If the is slot packing up with material it will only happen after the material passes the cutter, not before it reaches the cutter.

Because of the bits direction of rotation being introduced to the material it wants to climb out of the material & ride on top of the material & push material away from fence or away from the bearing for hand held. On a table feeding right to left the rotation of the bit helps keep the material against the fence. This same basic principle is the same if the slot cutter was installed with the cutting edge facing backwards because bit rotation is the same. Same as a blade on a table saw. They can be installed backwards with the cutters facing away from you & the result is usually a hard dull smoky cut. To climb cut on a table saw you would have to feed from wrong side of the saw regardless of teeth direction. None of this has any thing to do with chips being in the way. That's not the reason material is grabbed out of your hands when climb cutting. It's the bit or blade rotation verses the direction of material being fed past the cutter.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 12-27-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Welcome

Always move the stock from the right to the left." ◄ ◄ ◄ " and always made it in one pass with a slot cutter bit and always use a push block...if the cutter is sharp it will just plow down the board, no need for high speed, slot cutters should run at about 10,000 rpm's the norm or lower..

===
Just look at the bit before you start the router, note which way the carbide faces and turns, and feed so it turns into the work.

That's simpler than remembering that with the fence you feed right to left, for interior work on the table you move the piece counter clockwise, for exterior work on the table you go clockwise, for hand held exterior work you move the router counter clockwise, for hand held interior use you go clockwise....

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 12-27-2011 at 06:14 PM.
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