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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router for table & maybe a lift

After doing a little handheld routing tonight I've found a router table is going to be an essential for the shop. All I have now is a cheap craftsman that only has a 1/4 inch collet. I'd like to get maybe a Bosch 1617 or even a PC 893 but I'm wondering if I should be thinking about a router lift. If I decide to do a router lift along with my first nice router, should I be looking at other routers.
So I guess basically what's the best router to use with a lift?

Thanks,
Mitch
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 10:22 PM
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Mitch, if a lift is what you want go for it. Consider that a lift does nothing to improve the accuracy of your router and in most cases it is faster to do a set up by removing a plate mounted router from the table. Woodworking magazines get big money to tell you that the "Ultimate" router table has a lift. I have a pair of 1617's that have been trouble free for over 10 years. One nice feature is the motor does not spin in the base. Height adjustments are made by 3 rough positioning slots and the use of a micrometer style thumb wheel. This means that your switches will always be in the same location when table mounted. Lowes dropped the price of the 1617EVSPK to $179 and a forum member posted that he bought one on Amazon.com for $159.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 10:31 PM
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Hi Mitch.
You can mount any router in a table & if it doesn't have a lift you will just have to adjust it the old fashioned way by reaching under the table & adjusting it by hand. Unless your plate can be lifted out to get at the router. There are several models out now that have a built in lift for table mounting.

There are many different options but you must first decide what type of projects you intend to do with it. If you plan to venture into cabinet making I would suggest a 3-1/4hp router. That's not to say you won't be able to with a smaller router. It's just a larger router does it with less effort compared to a smaller router. If you enjoy smaller projects then you would be fine with a lower hp model.

Router Technologies makes an affordable lift around $90.00 for some routers called Router Raizer & they make one to fit the Bosch 1617 you mentioned. I use one on my Hitachi M12V & it works well. I also use a Triton 3-1/4hp in another table & the Tritons have a built in lift.

There are many options to consider. You just have to decide how much you want to spend. Money can buy lots of convenience.

You can read thru this thread. It contains many different setup's:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...ter-table.html

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 12-27-2011 at 10:35 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobragrover View Post
After doing a little handheld routing tonight I've found a router table is going to be an essential for the shop. All I have now is a cheap craftsman that only has a 1/4 inch collet. I'd like to get maybe a Bosch 1617 or even a PC 893 but I'm wondering if I should be thinking about a router lift. If I decide to do a router lift along with my first nice router, should I be looking at other routers.
So I guess basically what's the best router to use with a lift?

Thanks,
Mitch
The Varitas router table system comes with a lift. It will fit a Porter Cable router and Bosch. There is no way to fit a Triton Router to the Varitas Lift. I am not a pro, but I think you only need the lift to do blind lettering and inlay. Varitas also has all the accesseries for such needs. That's my own hobby experience talking.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bcfunburst View Post
The Varitas router table system comes with a lift. It will fit a Porter Cable router and Bosch. There is no way to fit a Triton Router to the Varitas Lift. I am not a pro, but I think you only need the lift to do blind lettering and inlay. Varitas also has all the accesseries for such needs. That's my own hobby experience talking.
A lift does more than blind lettering & inlay. You can also make small adjustments in bit heights or change the bit from on top of the table without taking router out. For me it's easier to turn the crank & hold the ruler to adjust bit height. The bigger routers can get heavy for some to lift out of the table to adjust. A lift is more of a luxury item & many ultimate router table builds include them. You can use a router in a table without a lift. The Triton's have built in lifts for table mounting.

James
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Have a nice & safe day!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 01:54 PM
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I agree that a lift does not improve the accuracy of your router. If you want a lift then do your homework and get the one that has all the gizmos you want but remember it only ads to the cost of the router table package.
If you intend to do a lot of heavy work with the router table then I suggest going for a 3+hp router. If most of your work will be smaller projects then I would suggest a smaller router.
Use the money you save not buying a lift to get a good sturdy table and the best router you can afford. Don't skip on the table, it needs to be a well belt table. You can build the table your self, just make sure it's not so light it walks around while you are trying to feed wood into it.
I have used both the Bosch 1617EVS and the PC 890 series Routers, and both are good routers. In the 3+ range I have use Triton and Porter Cable and both are good choices.
Mike
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 02:09 PM
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Hi

All I can say, the lift will let you do so much more with your router,it's a plus in my book.and it will improve the accuracy.
see videos on the web page below.

MLCS PowerLift™ Motorized Router Lift


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi

All I can say, the lift will let you do so much more with your router,it's a plus in my book.
see videos on the web page below.

MLCS PowerLift™ Motorized Router Lift


==
I agree. I would rather have one than not have one. Unless it's something I need on the fly for one time use. You know a piece of ply with a hole in it & block for a fence then when done throw it away.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 04:49 PM
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BJ, please help me to understand how the accuracy is improved? A lift is used to position the router. I can do that by hand and I have a micrometer style depth adjustment on my 1617. Please explain what job you can accomplish with a lift that you can not do with out one? Not sure what I am missing here.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 05:22 PM
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Mike i see you have the router work shop table i have that one also and the bosch 1617 in the table . I don't use a lift you don't need it for these . The only thing i see the lift do is set the depth from the top ?? Maybe i am missing something here also ?? thanks for reading. What i would do is get the 1617 and than the money for the lift buy bit's ?? I also have some pc690's also but the bosch is the one for the table . I use the other for plunge stuff and top routing. And a couple more in tables for dovetales and pin's so i don't have to change bit's.

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida

Last edited by del schisler; 01-18-2012 at 05:26 PM.
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