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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default What's going wrong?

Hello everyone, I've run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. I'm hoping some one more experienced than my self (which isn't hard to accomplish) can enlighten me on what is going wrong.

I'm using my router table to shape the edges of some drawer fronts. The cut goes perfectly as expected for most of the length of the cut. However, when I reach the end of the cut, it's like the bit pulls my work piece into itself, there by making the last 2 inches or so a deeper cut than the rest edge.

I hope that makes sense.

The bit I'm using doesn't have a bearing, as I'm shaping the full width of the drawer front. The fence of my table is setup so that the fence on either side of the bit are very close to the bit.

One would assume that the fence will prevent the work piece from being pulled closer to the bit towards the end. I just don't get it. Thankfully I was able to do some sanding to hide the cut depth disparity well enough so that it's not so noticeable.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 11:33 PM
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I have had this happen also in other routing projects. I am in process of buying a table featherboard which will hold the wood tighter, but like you ssaid, it's at the end. I use a split fence, not sure if that makes this happen easier. Lots of accomplished routers here, so I'm sure you will get the answer yopu need.

Jim
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 11:57 PM
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I use split fence most of the time and yes featherboards will help alot just learn where to place them .... what You are probally doing and not realizing is pulling the board away from fence at the end causing the bit to dig in the wood ...practice and learn something every time You make sawdust and good luck

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 03:22 AM
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Hi Welcome.
Since your bit does not have a bearing how are you aligning the depth of the fence with the bit? Sounds like you are using a split fence. Use a straight edge that reaches end to end & make sure that the fence is aligned even along it's length. Sounds like the outboard fence is back behind the cutting surface a little more than the other one.

If you are machining the whole edge then you might need to shim the out feed side to compensate for the material you removed. Much like a joiner where the out feed side is higher than the in feed side & the difference is the amount the the blade is removing. Your fence maybe aligned straight across with the bit but if you are machining the whole surface the out feed fence would be to shallow as the material exits the bit. You would need to shim it out. Hope that makes sense.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 03:59 AM
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Hi Holtenc,

Is the router bit you are using cutting into the full depth of the drawer front, like a ogee bit?

Or only taking a part of the depth like a rebate bit?

The ogee bit effectively works as a jointer and you will have to compensate for the amount removed as James (jlord) mentions.

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Last edited by jw2170; 12-30-2011 at 04:00 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:06 AM
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James hit the nail on the head. Your cut goes fine as long as there is material on the infeed fence to support it. You are removing material so when the wood reaches the outfeed side of the fence it is not supported even though it looks like it is. You may be able to correct this in your set up by slightly adjusting your fence forward so the cut is not as deep. Try it on a piece of scrap wood to check it. If that doesn't work then you will have to use a thin shim on the outfeed side to make up for the difference. Nothing saves you money like making a small test cut first.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:21 AM
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are you using a fence that is streight across?? If not they are not coplainer or streight across. If not this will happen. I didn't read any other post yet maybe some one has posted

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. Huge help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlord View Post
Hi Welcome.
Since your bit does not have a bearing how are you aligning the depth of the fence with the bit? Sounds like you are using a split fence. Use a straight edge that reaches end to end & make sure that the fence is aligned even along it's length. Sounds like the outboard fence is back behind the cutting surface a little more than the other one.

If you are machining the whole edge then you might need to shim the out feed side to compensate for the material you removed. Much like a joiner where the out feed side is higher than the in feed side & the difference is the amount the the blade is removing. Your fence maybe aligned straight across with the bit but if you are machining the whole surface the out feed fence would be to shallow as the material exits the bit. You would need to shim it out. Hope that makes sense.
This is my bit: Item #91715 at Rockler
And this is my table/fence: Item #21037 at Rockler
(can't post links yet)

The bit does have a bearing, but for my purposes it wasn't usable (board too thin to reach bearing). Plus, the cutting profile of the bit goes inside of the OD of the bearing, so that especially doesn't make sense that the bearing is there at all

I aligned the fence just a fraction of an inch behind the inner-most cutting surface of the bit. The fence goes strait across the full width of the table.

Having read your post, I believe you are correct about the out feed side of the fence needing a thin shim to compensate for removed material. It makes total sense now, and I feel a little ignorant for not realizing what was going on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
....You are removing material so when the wood reaches the outfeed side of the fence it is not supported even though it looks like it is....
It absolutely looked like it was supported on the outfeed side. And that's one of the reasons I didn't realize what was going on my own.

Really I felt that I was removing so little material at the innermost part of the bit that it wouldn't make much of a difference. Wrong.

Thanks again
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holtenc View Post
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Huge help.



This is my bit: Item #91715 at Rockler
And this is my table/fence: Item #21037 at Rockler
(can't post links yet)

The bit does have a bearing, but for my purposes it wasn't usable (board too thin to reach bearing). Plus, the cutting profile of the bit goes inside of the OD of the bearing, so that especially doesn't make sense that the bearing is there at all
Glad it is a little more clear to you. Many profiles have a bearing installed that has a diameter larger than the cutting edge. You can actually change the profile of a bit by just installing a different size bearing. Manufactures sell bits with a different name when it is just the same bit as another one with a different size bearing installed. An example would be some round over bits. Install a smaller bearing & you have a beading bit using some of that bit edge you see under the bearing. A bearing is cheaper than a whole bit if you really want to watch your budget.

Freud Quadra-Cut Beading Bits - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Freud Quadra-Cut™ Rounding Over Bits - Rockler Woodworking Tools

James
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Have a nice & safe day!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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hmm. good call. I should try to find a bearing that has a diameter that matches the innermost cutting surface of that bit...then I wont have to use a 1/16th or so shim
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