How to make a mounting plate insert - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Default How to make a mounting plate insert

I have built my own router table with the router mounted directly to the wooden table top. Now I would like to make a mounting plate insert from a hard material (such as one of those plastic cutting boards). Are there instructions or plans available for doing so?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 09:21 AM
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Mark, use your routers sub base plate as a template for marking the holes. Use 1/4" aluminum or 3/8" phenolic for the best results. Cutting boards are polyurethane which will flex; not a good choice for a mounting plate. Many mounting plates have removeable inserts for using different sized bits; this saves switching plates for different jobs. You save a lot of time and grief by just buying one of the commercial plates.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Mike,
Thanks for the advice. Any suggestions as to which commercial plate to use?
Mark
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 09:31 PM
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Rockler has theirs and the Benchdog for 59$. I think my next one will be the Incra. More bang for the buck.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 07:32 AM
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Mark, all the commercial plates will work. Rocklers installation templates are not real swift on tolerances but their mounting plates are fine. Note that they do not come with the insert for using PC style guide bushings; it must be purchased by itself. The Grizzly plates are identical to the HF plates and can use the Rousseau installation template which comes with a very handy two piece guide bushing. I like the Rousseau mounting kits which include the allen transfer screws, round insert which fits into the PC style center hole, a piece of 1/4" rod and longer screws for attaching your router to the plate. BJ usually keeps tabs on prices so perhaps he will jump in with links to the best deals at this time.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 06:56 PM
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I used 3/8" plexi glass, 12" X 10", and have had it in place for several years and works fine. Another option is 1/4" AL, which will work fine. The best thing is a commerical mounting plate with inserts to allow the minimum clearance between the edge of the bit and the opening or throat of the insert. If you make a home mounting plate, it is very difficult to machine the plate to accept the inserts so they will set flush with the top of the mounting plate. One of these days I will replace my plexi glass one with a commerical grade.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 07:30 PM
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HI frosty

Very easy to make your own inserts, it takes a little bit of work but in the long run it's worth it..

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Originally Posted by frosty50 View Post
I used 3/8" plexi glass, 12" X 10", and have had it in place for several years and works fine. Another option is 1/4" AL, which will work fine. The best thing is a commerical mounting plate with inserts to allow the minimum clearance between the edge of the bit and the opening or throat of the insert. If you make a home mounting plate, it is very difficult to machine the plate to accept the inserts so they will set flush with the top of the mounting plate. One of these days I will replace my plexi glass one with a commerical grade.


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 04:42 AM
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I find myself wondering how many different 'hole patterns' are in use for mounting routers to their tables/sub-plates. Most of the photos I have seen have 4 holes at 90 degree intervals or three holes at 120 degree intervals. I have to assume the distance from the screw holes to the center of the 'bit pass through' hole varies from brand to brand as well.

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