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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router Lift mechanism

On some routers they have a special base, like the Bosch 1617EVSTB, where a wrench is inserted through the top to make depth adjustments. With these routers, does one have to reach under the table to release the motor clamp?

If not I suppose then I would not have to buy a router lift. Perhaps these adjustments of which they speak are only "micro" adjustments and would not raise the router up high enough to change the bits etc. I do not want to lift the router out of the table to do anything. To me, that would defeat the purpose for making one. I also do not want to reach under the table to release a clamp. Unfortunately the manufactures don't tell us anything like this. So, with this criteria, do I need a separate router lift?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 08:27 PM
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Default Routers and Lifts

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Originally Posted by mr nobody View Post
On some routers they have a special base, like the Bosch 1617EVSTB, where a wrench is inserted through the top to make depth adjustments. With these routers, does one have to reach under the table to release the motor clamp?

If not I suppose then I would not have to buy a router lift. Perhaps these adjustments of which they speak are only "micro" adjustments and would not raise the router up high enough to change the bits etc. I do not want to lift the router out of the table to do anything. To me, that would defeat the purpose for making one. I also do not want to reach under the table to release a clamp. Unfortunately the manufactures don't tell us anything like this. So, with this criteria, do I need a separate router lift?
Hi Mr.NB
Quite a few router mfgrs have provisions for making adj from the top.
For instance, the PorterCable 890 base has two holes accessible from the top; one to raise and lower the bit, and one to unlock and lock the motor. Works quite well. (The router table "plate" that holds the router base below it, may have to be drilled to access the two holes in the router base.)
The newest way to raise a bit is by using a motorized router lift such as one provided by MlcsWoodworking.com (PowerLift) Not cheap, but it works surprisingly well.
Mark
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If you edit your Routerforms profile, then we can address you by your first name.

Last edited by allbarknobite; 01-11-2012 at 08:41 PM. Reason: corr
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr nobody View Post
On some routers they have a special base, like the Bosch 1617EVSTB, where a wrench is inserted through the top to make depth adjustments. With these routers, does one have to reach under the table to release the motor clamp?

If not I suppose then I would not have to buy a router lift. Perhaps these adjustments of which they speak are only "micro" adjustments and would not raise the router up high enough to change the bits etc. I do not want to lift the router out of the table to do anything. To me, that would defeat the purpose for making one. I also do not want to reach under the table to release a clamp. Unfortunately the manufactures don't tell us anything like this. So, with this criteria, do I need a separate router lift?
Short answer is maybe. I have a Freud 3000 with the built in lift, but it is also a plunge router so there is no base to unlock. The bit raises above the table and the height and spindle locks are available from above the table. Does this keep from having to go under the table at all,, no... the speed control is still on the router. A lift won't change that either.

John Schaben

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 11:15 PM
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Default Could tilt the table using a piano hinge

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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Short answer is maybe. I have a Freud 3000 with the built in lift, but it is also a plunge router so there is no base to unlock. The bit raises above the table and the height and spindle locks are available from above the table. Does this keep from having to go under the table at all,, no... the speed control is still on the router. A lift won't change that either.
John,
You're right about having to go under the table to make speed changes. Possibly a good solution for Mr.NB would to build himself a "counterweighted tilting" router table, to be able to work on both sides of the router without too much duress. One of my tables is built so, and seems to work.
Mark
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 09:01 AM
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I had my Milwaukee 5616-20 router in my table with above table access but had to go under the table to release the lock. The speed control was on the back side out of sight so I bought a mirror and used that to adjust the speed when needed. I now have a PC 892 in my table with the height adjustment and lock release both above the table, but still have to use the mirror to adjust speed. I have a lift top table but that doesn't solve the problem of seeing the speed control. It is still out of sight and lifting the router and table insert out is a pain in the posterior so I just use the mirror.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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