Ian, Let me clarify a bit. Using a miter track and miter gauge is fine as long as the fence is moved out of the way. A router uses a single round cutting point so your material will not kick back like it would with a table saw blade. A saw blade is a flat surface so your fence and miter slot must be parallel to it or kick back will happen. When you combine a miter slot with a fence on a router table you will not get kick back but the fence can deflect the material and spoil your cut if they are not parallel. Here is another thought: a miter track is usually not cheap. You can make a different type of miter sled that is just a flat panel of 6 or 8 mm with a strip of wood or MDF attached to the bottom so it will guide off your table edge. A strip of wood or MDF attached to the top right side acts as a push block to keep your material square as it moves along the table surface. You can use a piece of scrap in front of this that extends past the bit to prevent tear out; it works like a zero clearance fence backing up your material as it is cut. This design requires you to hold the sled against the table edge as it moves but is very effective and does not catch dust like a miter slot does. It is quick and easy to align a fence with a miter sled like this so you can use a fence dust collection port to capture the dust. If you cut a T slot on your fence you can easily mount a bit guard or feather boards to it; I prefer the Router Workshop method of clamping items like this in place. You can also use the VacGuard project from the member videos tab with a sled like this; that way you have a guard over the bit, additional light on the bit and a vacuum port. Thinking "outside the box" will often make woodworking easier.
"Living in the D" (this means Detroit!)
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"
Last edited by Mike; 01-15-2012 at 07:42 AM.