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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Default wiring a switch to router table

Hello, I'm sure this question has appeared many times before. I am in the process of building a new router table, want to install a off/on switch to the outside of the cabinet, I have a combination switch (plug outlet and off/on switch) but I think I would be better off with an outlet switch on the inside of the cabinet (hiding the plug for the router) and just the single off/on switch on the outside. hope this makes sense, any other ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance. FB



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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnightflyer View Post
Hello, I'm sure this question has appeared many times before. I am in the process of building a new router table, want to install a off/on switch to the outside of the cabinet, I have a combination switch (plug outlet and off/on switch) but I think I would be better off with an outlet switch on the inside of the cabinet (hiding the plug for the router) and just the single off/on switch on the outside. hope this makes sense, any other ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance. FB



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Hi Floyd, welcome to the forum
My table came with a regular wall outlet mounted on the back of the cabinet. The router cord was fed through a hole in the back of the cabinet and plugged into that. That part I liked. Mounting the outlet outside the cabinet meant less router dust and dirt getting into it and possibly fouling the contacts. What I didn't like was the outlet was controlled by a regular wall switch and was difficult to find without looking. I removed that and installed a power switch from a Ryobi table saw and it works just fine. A better move would have been to install a switch like this one:
H8241 110V Paddle On/Off Switch
No difference in the cost but the referenced one has a much larger off paddle. Not enough difference for me to change it, just a dose of hindsight..
Hope this helps

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 10:01 PM
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FB:

My recommendation is to go with your first option - pulling the router cord outside the dust and debris area, and running it to a switched outlet (this leaves your router switch in the 'on' position) - this is how I have mine wired, and it works great (I go an extra step to have the main electrical feed go to a first switch that feeds my Table Saw and the external router switch. This places two switches between me and the equipment when I'm doing blade and bit changes, and Fence adjustments - I'm not recommending this extra step for you, but this works for me.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 10:57 PM
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Hi Floyd,

I think the outlet/switch on the inside and the single switch on the outside would be the way to go. You would not have the power plug in the way by the switch.

Also you can use a rocker type switch so you can make a large button to activate the switch easily if you need to shut the router down in a hurry. If something unexpected happens a small switch might be hard to get your hand on.

You could use a safety switch on the outside like the ones sold by Rockler and MLCS.

Hope this is of some help,
Mike

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the great suggestions, I like the idea of the larger switch for safety reasons, I am making my own top and using a Kreg insert, I am using a 1/4" tempered hardboard on the 3/4" MDF, don't know if I am going to like that idea either. Anyway thanks forr all the great help, its very much appreciated...... FB
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 11:38 PM
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hi

I use the power switch with outlets on the side of the cabinet also but I also use a dead man switch just in case I need to power down quick,my hands are on the stock and I don't want to shift my weight around to hit a big red button switch..

I have found out over time that if you use feather boards like I do you can't just pull the stock away from the bit if you run into a jam/error but with the dead man you can just take your foot off of it and the router will just stop then you can fix the error and run the stock by the bit one more time plus when you get to the end of the pass you can take your foot off the dead man without the need to find the power switch on the router or switch on the side of the cabinet.,just a neat way to keep you safe on the router table...


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 07:51 AM
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I like the pedal foot switch. My RT hangs off the end of the table saw with no cabinet. No place to put a paddle switch. The router is always unplugged when changing bits or adjusting the height.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 08:20 AM
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My switch is attached to the side of the table within easy reach. It's a shop made one something like this.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 12:23 PM
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I put a box on the outside of the table. Keeps the dust away from it.
A pigtail cord comes out the bottom of the box, and a 20 amp switch turns it on/off.
When changing bits, you want to be able to unplug the router. The pigtail makes that simple to do.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 07:23 PM
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I have a switch on the side where it is easy to reach with right hand controlling a outlet on the back of table facing outside small hole for cord to fit this keeps dust at a minimum from entering box.... a good extension cord with female end cut will do nicely for feed or 12/2 with a ground I have used both.... Boxes - .97 cents ..Outlets about $ 7.00.... switches $4.00-$5.00... one roll 12/2 with ground 15' long $17.00.....Not having to bend down and/or reach under table to turn router on/off ---PRICELESS......
I also have made a worktable top cabinet for shopvac/dust deputy same type setup except one outlet controlled by switch ( shopvac switch ) other outlet live all time for small sanders and other handheld tools... all of these are one casters,,making it easy to roll around and with a small shop less extension cords and such on the floor help making it safer to work

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