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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default Stopped burns

I really like the style of the first pen box.

The problem is that it only comes in one size and that is too small for the El Grande fountain pen and pencil set that I am making for a customer.

So I set out to make my own.

The problem comes about when I try to rout a stopped grove. I get burning at the beginning and end of the stop.

Changing the router speed, sneaking up on the final pass, nothing seems to help.

It is impossible to move faster at the ends of the stop and that is where the burn occurs.

I want to know how they did it in the manufactured item.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:27 PM
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Larry, I often had this problem before using a plunge router for grooves such as this. I am uncertain of what you're using (fixed, plunge or table-mount), but will guess that your groove would have burns anywhere along its length where additional spinning time is experienced; but you're probably simply seeing burns at your stops & starts. I hope this proves helpful, also some species of wood are more prone toward burning than others. OPG3
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:50 PM
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Maybe make 2 or 3 passes?
Plunge one end, then the other, then make a couple of passes.
Good luck.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using a table mounted router and I've tried all of the above both in maple and poplar.
Same results.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 07:13 PM
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Default Preventing blade burns

I think there are several ideas on how it happens. One poster suggests that some woods are just burn prone. I experience this burning problem is resin saturated woods and wood that I am re-purposing from salvaged or reclaimed woods.

I used to be making clean cuts with my bits and now they burn as I am feeding them. I suspect that I need to:

1. Sharpen my bits!

2. Clean my bits more often with a solvent that removes resins.

3. Make more passes.

4. Follow the advice of whaho6o9 for carefully plunging the ends first then take out the middle in smooth passes.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Again - all of the above.

I have read just about everything there is about routing and burning and they all say the same: Many passes, clean bits, slower router speed, slower feed rate, different wood, etc, etc.

I can do thru grooves with the 3/4in core box bit with no problem so I don't think it's the bit (It's a Porter Cable "Red" bit). Maybe I'll stop over at Woodcraft and get another bit and see if that helps.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 08:12 PM
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Hi

To start with use a New BIT.

Try this, the bit you are using can do it in one pass ,you are just going down about 1/8" deep the norm , plunge down make the pass and get out as quick as you can that's to say don't stick around ,a little bit of sanding will clean it up if you have some fuzz from the cut..

===

Quote:
Originally Posted by larryc View Post
I really like the style of the first pen box.

The problem is that it only comes in one size and that is too small for the El Grande fountain pen and pencil set that I am making for a customer.

So I set out to make my own.

The problem comes about when I try to rout a stopped grove. I get burning at the beginning and end of the stop.

Changing the router speed, sneaking up on the final pass, nothing seems to help.

It is impossible to move faster at the ends of the stop and that is where the burn occurs.

I want to know how they did it in the manufactured item.



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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi

To start with use a New BIT.

Try this, the bit you are using can do it in one pass ,you are just going down about 1/8" deep the norm , plunge down make the pass and get out as quick as you can that's to say don't stick around ,a little bit of sanding will clean it up if you have some fuzz from the cut..

===
I am going down 3/8" deep in four passes. The problem is; going down against the stop, you have to press down on the piece being routed, make the pass between stops and safely grab the piece to get out. This takes time at the beginning and end and that's where the burn happens.

Maybe there's another (safer) way to hold the piece. It is only 2 1/4 wide and 7 in long.

I will try the new bit.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2012, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Burning problem resolved!

Went to Woodcrafters yesterday and Roy suggested that my problem could be resolved with a completely different bit.

If you remember I was using a core box bit that has no cutters at the top of the bit to cut stopped grooves.

Roy's suggestion of a dish carving bit which does have cutters at the top of the bit solved the problem.

Tried it this morning routing stopped grooves in both poplar and maple and no burning.

A word of caution - because the dish carving bit is a more aggressive bit, the bit should not be raised more than 1/16 in for each pass.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryc View Post
Burning problem resolved!

Went to Woodcrafters yesterday and Roy suggested that my problem could be resolved with a completely different bit.

If you remember I was using a core box bit that has no cutters at the top of the bit to cut stopped grooves.

Roy's suggestion of a dish carving bit which does have cutters at the top of the bit solved the problem.

Tried it this morning routing stopped grooves in both poplar and maple and no burning.

A word of caution - because the dish carving bit is a more aggressive bit, the bit should not be raised more than 1/16 in for each pass.
Larry,
Make a set of handles you can double stick tape to the work piece, don't need to get fancy unless you want to). This will help with control of the work piece and help get your fingers away from the aggressive bit.
Hope this helps,
Mike

Mike
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A Disability Is Only A Disability If You Let It Be One
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