Table Saw extension table - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table Saw extension table

Does anyone have any experience, good and bad, with table saw extension router tables. I am considering an MLCS cast iron table but need some pro's and con's. Will be mounting a Makita or Bosch (still undecided) 3 1/4 HP router.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 10:31 PM
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I considered it, mainly because I thought it would be handy to use the saws rip fence but decided against it for a couple of reasons. One, the fence is running the wrong way in my opinion and Two, if you need to leave the router set for a job and also need to use the saw you might have to pop the router out of the table. Or you might need to leave the saw set for a job and need to move the fence to use the router.
It just seemed more practical to me to have them separate. That's just my opinion. You should look at the pros and cons and then decide. How much spare room you have could be a big factor too.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 03:25 AM
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I will be interested in seeing what answers you get, as I got one of these

Router Table Extension Wing & Fence : CARBA-TEC

just got far as mounting the wing to the table saw.
I have tried it on both sides and settled on the R/H side as it fits in between the fence rails and does not take as much room in my incredible shrinking shed.

Cheers,
Mark.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 05:51 PM
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A router in the table extension will be in the way more often than you may anticipate. A dedicated table is always preferable, but if it comes down to lack of space, the wing mounted router makes a lot of sense.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 08:12 PM
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I concur with Ray, and am moving away from my Table Saw Extension router table. Combining the Table Saw and the Router appeals to the efficiency in each of us, and is the least of evils if you don't have the space or don't want to spend the money for a standalone Router Table. For me, the conversion time, and the frequency of the conversion simply aggravate me to spend the money. The Table Saw, Miter Saw, and Router Table are the 3 most-used pieces of equipment in most shops - in mine, certainly - when I need them, I want them sitting there waiting for me, ready to go.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 10:36 PM
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All of the above plus a saw table is too low for most people to rout at with comfort. Many members are happy with theirs but I prefer using a simple table at the correct height. The Grizzly 10432 is $129 plus shipping and is the best deal at this time.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 02:35 AM
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That Grizzly is cheap enough if only I had more room,

Cheers,
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 07:57 AM
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My saw table came with the router fittings as part of it, and I have found it to be quite workable for the things that I have done. When I set the height of the router bit, I do use the stops nearly all the time. This allows me to drop the router when I am not using it, and then put it back up at the same height if necessary. As has been commented in other posts, space is at a premium, and if I didn't do this, I wouldn't have a router table at all. The biggest pain I have with my saw table is in fact the guard and riving knife. They are all one unit and I am frequently removing them just to set the angle of the saw etc.

Although I can move the saw fence to where the router is, I don't use it for the router. Instead I have a piece of 70 x 50 that runs the full width of the table that I clamp to the table where needed. (50 x 70 = 2" x 2 3/4" approx) I cut a channel out of the 70 x 50 in the middle so that I can put it over the top of the router bit, which is something you can't do with the saw fence. This channel also gives somewhere for the sawdust to go when it comes out of the router and keeps the job a bit cleaner.

I don't find height an issue, but I have raised the saw table by putting 2 bricks under each leg. It's hard to explain simply, but I needed it this high to get longer lengths of timber over other obstacles, and with 3100 (12') ceilings, I end up with quite a few longer lengths. Just to complete the picture, my scroll saw sits on the table saw over the top of the router because I don't have any other space. This means I have to drop the router to use the scroll saw, or put the scroll saw on the floor to use the router. Given that, you'll probably understand why I haven't gone for a separate router table - there just isn't the space.

My 2 biggest issues with the router in this setup is changing the cutter and setting the height for a job. There really isn't enough room to change bits easily, but I've found the best is to lift the router up as high as possible and remove the cover place over the router hole. I have a plunge router, so setting the height is a matter of pushing up against the spring. I use the stops in a trial and error mode to find the right height, and once the height is set correctly, I don't touch the stops unless I have to.

The cast iron table is quite solid and I don't have any issues with vibration etc.

That's my experience.

Darryl
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:49 AM
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Just a cautionary note on the 'bricks under each leg' - the table saw and router will cause significant vibration, and could walk-off the bricks - this could be dangerous ...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdorsam View Post
Just a cautionary note on the 'bricks under each leg' - the table saw and router will cause significant vibration, and could walk-off the bricks - this could be dangerous ...
MikeD.
Mike,

I was cautious of that, and still am to a certain extent, but I check for movement every time I vaccuum around it. To date there is no movement, but I am not presuming that will always be.

Darryl
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