MLCS Ruter Plate... - Router Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Keith
Posts: 84
 
Default MLCS Ruter Plate...

Has anybody used the MLCS router plate? Either the phenolic or the aluminum? What about the install kit?

Thanks,

Keith
BigCountry is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 06:47 PM
Registered User
 
Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 1,170
 
Default

I have the phenolic plate and am happy with it. If you want a crash course in making a template then do not buy the install kit. You will learn a lot assuming you are not familar with templates.
If you like a full head of hair, not taking antacids and want to use your router table soon then buy the install kit

Galatians 5:13
Marco is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 07:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 3
 
Default MLCS aluminum plate

I got the 1/4" aluminum plate it's very nice, I didn't get the install kit.
Only thing I don't like is the opening isn't large enough for my 3 1/2" raised panel bit,
so I have to use a 1/4" pad on the table to make a light first pass.
Mike
Inspector4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 09:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Will
Posts: 34
 
Default

They also have blank acrylic Plexiglas plates, and you can make up the bit hole how ever you want it that way. They stock it in 1/4" and 3/8" thick, and really, the 3/8" is the way to go, especially if you want to use any sort of insert, for minimum warpage, or you have a heavy router.

You can buy more of this acrylic, and use a radius-type circle cutter, or trepanning tool, to cut out and countersink a large hole for the bit, and make your own inserts. General makes the tool, along with others, and can be purchased pretty cheap.

You can make the cutout using simple flat boards with double-sided tape laid out in an outline of the plate, and using a top-bearing flush trim-pattern bit to make the cuts. Simply place the plate where you want it to go by using a small amount of double-sided tape so it wont scoot around. Place the boards around the perimeter using tape. Next, pull up the plate from the middle, and place the plate on top of one of the boards, then the router on top of that. Then, bring the bit down until it tips the table, and set it's depth of cut there. Remove the plate from the top of the board that you used for a height reference, put the router base on top of a board, and plunge in the bit to the stop, then trace the bearing around the boards. Last, cut out the center piece for the router to go through with a saber saw. The routed ledge should be exactly the right depth to match the plate thickness, since it was used as a height reference. I always made the ledge using a 3/4" bit, so I got a 3/4" ledge all around. If your off a little, its better to be too deep, that not deep enough, to the ledge. If your too deep, you can drill and tap the 3/8" acrylic on each corner, and use some small leveling screws.

The MCLS pattern is simply the same thing as adding the boards around the plate, its just a pattern.
WillMatney is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 10:25 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,046
 
Default

I have their small benchtop table and it came with the aluminum plate so I didn't get the install kit. Biggest problem was I wore through the anodizing to where it was leaving black marks on the stock in about 8 months. Guess I didn't keep it waxed well enough. I gave it two coats of Rustoleum appliance enamel and it fixed it, at least for now. I changed tables a few months after that and haven't used the benchtop as much since.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 10:44 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi Mike

Check out the video below

VIDEO — No–nonsense Router Table— Inset a Router Base Plate | Popular Woodworking Magazine

I will say the phenolic plate supports any router ,once you bolt the router in place it becomes 3/4" thick or more the norm just that quick, the router base adds a great deal to the plate mounting system...

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...ase-plate.html

==

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inspector4 View Post
I got the 1/4" aluminum plate it's very nice, I didn't get the install kit.
Only thing I don't like is the opening isn't large enough for my 3 1/2" raised panel bit,
so I have to use a 1/4" pad on the table to make a light first pass.
Mike


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2335.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	252.2 KB
ID:	50581  


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 03-02-2012 at 11:44 PM.
bobj3 is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 03:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Tim
Posts: 38
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
I have their small benchtop table and it came with the aluminum plate so I didn't get the install kit. Biggest problem was I wore through the anodizing to where it was leaving black marks on the stock in about 8 months. Guess I didn't keep it waxed well enough. I gave it two coats of Rustoleum appliance enamel and it fixed it, at least for now. I changed tables a few months after that and haven't used the benchtop as much since.
Sand the plate with 80 grit - use spray adhisive glue on formica - the thick type - re-cut table opening depth - if you ever need to change the formica - freeze the plate and pop off the formica - re new.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2740.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	149.3 KB
ID:	50585  

Slomoe is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 11:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Will
Posts: 34
 
Default

Anodizing shouldn't come off that easily, unless this happens over a good bit of use. That is, if the anodizing is done correctly, a good dye is used, and the plate is sealed after its dyed.

I wonder if a lot of these aluminum plates aren't being made generically, and anodized, but left as is, and shipped undyed? Then, the seller dyes their own to the color they want, but don't seal them in boiling water, nor use a sealer chemical to protect the finish? Really, they should be hard-anodized, where the finish is a lot tougher, but that technique costs more, and is more time consuming to do.

That's the reason I use plastic, or a composite plate, but the idea of using a thin laminate, which is glued to the aluminum, is a very good one. I may try this myself.
WillMatney is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build an economy table top and install a mounting plate Mike Table-mounted Routing 93 01-15-2016 11:52 AM
Router Plate Installation Rutabagared Project Plans and How To 11 01-14-2012 08:15 PM
The Marvel 3 in 1 tool from MLCS: base plate and table mount advice please loninappleton Table-mounted Routing 4 07-10-2010 09:32 PM
MLCS Laser Router Plate bobj3 Jigs and Fixtures 2 03-14-2008 03:40 PM
Insert Plate size and 11.5" handle spread; how to prevent problems Ladd Table-mounted Routing 34 12-14-2007 02:08 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome