RT top with plywood & mdf - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default RT top with plywood & mdf

I am making a router table top for a metal stand I bought (Rockler). I want the top to be as flat as possible. MDF is flat, but does not hold screws well. Plywood holds screws well, but is not necessarily flat. I am thinking about making a top using 3/4" plywood (baltic birch) with 3/4" mdf on top. Both sides would be covered with plastic laminate. Would this be OK?

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rbh11g View Post
I am making a router table top for a metal stand I bought (Rockler). I want the top to be as flat as possible. MDF is flat, but does not hold screws well. Plywood holds screws well, but is not necessarily flat. I am thinking about making a top using 3/4" plywood (baltic birch) with 3/4" mdf on top. Both sides would be covered with plastic laminate. Would this be OK?

Dick

I don't think you will any trouble with that combination, Dick.

Screws should not be an issue as they will only be used to stop the two layers from sliding apart?,

The Oak Park table is only one layer of 1 1/4" BB Ply? laminated on both sides - no screws are used from what I can see.

If I was going to make a small table I would just use laminated MDF. 1 @ 3/4" and 1 @ 1/2".

PS I always remove my router from my Oak Park table after use, so I have had no problems with sagging.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:44 PM
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Most sheets goods even mdf belly and bow. I bump bellys when laminating the two together. You wont need screws if you glue and leave clamped overnight. I usually glue one piece the size I need to a bigger piece and trim it back. If you have a flat surface clamp the two sheets together to the flat surface and you will get great results.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 11:12 PM
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The metal frame should hold your top flat. The screws shouldn't be a problem in mdf, because, as James pointed out, they are only keeping the top from sliding around. If you should strip a screw hole out they are easy to fix by gluing flat tootpicks in the hole and then re-driving the screw in. Probably stronger than original that way.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 12:31 AM
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Default Mounting the top

You could use tee nuts and 10-32 screws to hold them together. Counterbore for the tee nuts. I did an over kill on mine and CB for the tee nuts, then mortised out a 1 1/2" sq and put in 1/8" model aircraft ply over the top.- the 1/8 ply is 6 ply. In realality a double row of course thread drywall screws outside of where your router plate will be located and 3" in from the edge will hold them together enough to squeeze the glue. I like to pre drill and deburr with a little relief the 2 matching holes so I don't have that little mound stuck between the ply /mdf. Flatness is important here.
When you attach the metal frame to the top - attach the top frame rails first with the ply/mdf top clamped to something flat, like your table saw and tighten down. Then build up the balance of the frame loose to complete, check squareness, - then tighten. Then unclamp the top from your table saw. This method keeps you from twisting the top to match the frame when you assemble it.
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