New build problem? Or is it? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy New build problem? Or is it?

I decided that I need to extend my Kreg Benchtop Router Table as it was to small. It needs to be expanded at the back by about 350mm (14") and the right hand side also needs to be extended by the same amount.

I have built a new router table top and have inserted the Kreg original top into it.

I could have gone about in a better way, hindsight is marvellous, but overall it should be ok in the long run when it is finished. However, I have a little problem that I need some advice on please.

The Kreg component is not quite flush with the new top. (Lots of four letter words!) The picture attached shows the size and location of the problem. The Kreg section has been glued in with epoxy so it cant be taken out again easily.

Although the corner is .75mm (less than 1/32" too low, as its only the corner hopefully it wont cause me to much grief. In the middle of the side its .3mm (about 1/64") and at the back in the middle the drop is .3mm.

Any suggestions please? Is it necessary to build up the lip, and if so, what would be the best thing to use so it doesn't look awful? Or can I just leave it? Or, is the only solution to spend many hours cutting the Kreg Top out and having to redo it?

Cheers
Ric
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 11:02 AM
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I don't think you have an issue. The whole error looks to me to be well behind where the fence will be, I don't see much of your project stock passing over that.

I am a bit puzzled on how you plan to use the miter slot?

John Schaben

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Last edited by jschaben; 03-20-2012 at 11:04 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 11:32 AM
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Hi

I agree with John, it's not a big deal like John said most of the time it wil be under the fence or behind it but it's one of the things that will nag you every time you use it..
It's 50/50 thing it's one of the things you want to be right from the get go I would suggest you just start over and just use the blue plate this time in the new top but if you are happy with it just let it be..and use it the way you have it now.

But like they say if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right or try to..like John said I don't get the tee slot but I'm almost sure you said I don't need a long one away.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 12:10 PM
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TORB, Most epoxy formulations can be easily softened with heat (not fire). In my business we often have to flush-mount something nested in another part. Looking at the photo you have included, experience has taught me and my guys on similar situations that a series of fine-thread adjustment bolts can be first installed. When the bolts are all adjusted to where a "dry-fit" is perfect, add epoxy between and on the adjustment bolts and make the final installation. With the right epoxy, you will have time to make some final adjustments - and with a "full bed joint" of epoxy it will not wobble later.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help and the comments guys.

What really nurks me is that I laid the whole thing upside down on a level surface when I inserted the Kreg component. So, gravity should have ensured that the damn thing was level.

The only thing I can think that caused the corner problem was that the clamping caused it to pinch and rise.

jschaben, the miter slot is built into the Kreg top as standard.

You guys are right about the niggle every time I look at it, so I might just have to fix it anyway.

Cheers
Ric
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TORB View Post
Thanks for the help and the comments guys.


jschaben, the miter slot is built into the Kreg top as standard.


Cheers
Ric
Hi Ric, I knew that. Just wondering if you were planning on opening the ends or just use it for clamping. Would be kind of trick to get a t-anything in there now

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Ric, I knew that. Just wondering if you were planning on opening the ends or just use it for clamping. Would be kind of trick to get a t-anything in there now
Hi John,

I am actually going to extend the miter track all the way through. I am also going to add two T tracks going from the back to 3/4 of the way to the front.

I have now removed the Kreg top from the table by cutting it out with a jig saw. It turned out that the one corner of the Kreg was slightly warped and that was the cause of the initial problem. I will mount it differently this time so that I can get it flush, or as near as damn it.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:24 PM
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I'm with Bob, I'd have just used the blue plate of the Kreg table. It has height adjustment screws, so cutting out for it would not be super critical. And I think on my next table, I'm going to go with a good portion of the members here, and use no t-tracks. Just make sure my table overhangs my cabinet (as mine does now) and clamp everything. Have one smooth top, with the exception of the router plate. Which can easily be adjusted.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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The new table is now built and the top is level. See attached picture.

As you can see, there is a miter track and 2 T tracks. The fence currently bolts into the T tracks but that gives me a fair bit of pivot.

If possible, I would like the fence to be straight (90 degrees to the edge of the table. Is there an easy way to adapt the 5/8" track mechanism so that it slides square rather than pivots?

Cheers
Ric
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