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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router table electrical help

So I think I have figured out how to wire up my router table, but I wanted to make sure it looked right. I have attached a picture of my plan for my wiring. Basicly I will always have one live double gang outlet, then a switch which powers a single gang outlet and a double gang outlet. Does my diagram look correct?

Additionaly I picked up this switch from grizzly to use: H8241 110V Paddle On/Off Switch

it looks like i need some sort of clips to hook the electrical up to the back of the switch. Does anybody have any experience with this and can tell me what I need to wire it up?
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 06:02 AM
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There is no reason to have more than a single outlet or switch on your router table unless it is to run a light. Electric motors should each have their own outlet and most will pull the majority of current the cord can handle anyways.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 07:38 AM
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I agree with Mike. This is my setup for the router omly.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. I often use my router table as an additional work table so that's the reason for live outlet. It will never be used while the router is being used. The single gang is for my router, and I was planning on using the other double gang for my shopvac. Will running the shopvac and router at the same time be a problem?

Also anybody have any idea on the grizzly switch? My dad said it looks sort of like automotive electrical and that Id need to solder some clips to my wires and clip them to the switch. Anybody have any idea what kind of clips I need?
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:40 AM
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I don't see the need for the seperate single outlet receptacle as both outlets on the other switched receptacle are controlled by the switch. One for the router, one for the shop vac. I don't see what having 2 buys you, unless you want to have the one more out of the way because the router is mounted in the table.

Mine is setup like that (1 receptacle controlled by a switch) ... no problems so far, but I don't use my router all the time or for long periods at a time.

Just make sure the switch is rated for the combined amps of the router and shop vac. They are usually 15a, so you should be fine. Use 14 gauge or thicker wire.


For a single combo switch, I do it like this:
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:40 AM
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You will need some female quick disconnect wire terminals for a .250 male tab for 12 to 14 awg.wire. Should be available at any auto parts store.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
I don't see the need for the seperate single outlet receptacle as both outlets on the other switched receptacle are controlled by the switch. One for the router, one for the shop vac. I don't see what having 2 buys you, unless you want to have the one more out of the way because the router is mounted in the table.

Mine is setup like that ... no problems so far, but I don't use my router all the time or for long periods at a time.

For a single combo switch, I do it like this:
Chris, it doesn’t make sense to break of the tab and add a jumper because the tab is the jumper.

I just thought I’d point that out since I’ve found a lot problems are caused by breaking off the tab especially with the push-in type of receptacle. You really have to be careful breaking off the tab because it distorts and weakens the prongs inside.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
I don't see the need for the seperate single outlet receptacle as both outlets on the other switched receptacle are controlled by the switch. One for the router, one for the shop vac. I don't see what having 2 buys you, unless you want to have the one more out of the way because the router is mounted in the table.
The single outlet will be inside my cabinet with my router connected to it. The double will be mounted outside the cabinet to plug the shop vac into.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyB60 View Post
Chris, it doesn’t make sense to break of the tab and add a jumper because the tab is the jumper.

I just thought I’d point that out since I’ve found a lot problems are caused by breaking off the tab especially with the push-in type of receptacle. You really have to be careful breaking off the tab because it distorts and weakens the prongs inside.
good point. my diagram was more of a "cleaning up of the wiring on the diagram" that argoknot posted than anything.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
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The single outlet will be inside my cabinet with my router connected to it. The double will be mounted outside the cabinet to plug the shop vac into.
then your approach makes prefect sense.

just thinking out of the box ... one other option might be to have a 2 plug outlet hidden (as planned) and run a short extension cord from that for the shop vac when you are using the router. you can then have a little hook up out of the way for the cord when not in use.

that way, you (or someone else working in the shop with you) might be less likely to plug something into a switched outlet my mistake.

i'm not saying i know for sure if i would do it that way or not, that is a personal preference, but it is another way to skin the cat.
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