Using Oak for miter slot T-square. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default Using Oak for miter slot T-square.

I started out making the sliding fence at the end of the video below, but then I started thinking that since I had a miter slot in my router table, I would use that. I first tried a long T-Slot, but it was too tight. Then I found a ¾” piece of oak and fastened it to a couple of scrap pieces of white melamine particle board.

I’m now wondering if the 3/4” x 3/8” oak will remain true and square. Anybody have experience with this.



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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 05:41 PM
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Hello!

IMHO:
wood is always movind, at least a little.
Depends on how and where it' s cut from the tree.
Oak moves to but it' s a good wood.

Look at grain direction, if it's nicely in line it will not move much.

If it moves to much, you will replace the stick of wood...

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hello!

IMHO:
wood is always movind, at least a little.
Depends on how and where it' s cut from the tree.
Oak moves to but it' s a good wood.

Look at grain direction, if it's nicely in line it will not move much.

If it moves to much, you will replace the stick of wood...

Regards
Thanks Gerard, it’s been lying around for a while and was scrap from another project. I don’t even remember when it was originally cut. I did run it through the planer because it was just a hair more that ¾” and not parallel also I needed to plane the other side down to 3/8” from 1/2".
I don’t have my dovetail bit yet and I’m worried it will not stay true when I go to use it. Even if it works I will probably change it to steel whenever I get the chance.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 07:08 PM
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I use oak runners in a variety of appliccations. They are used on my shop built tenoning jig for table saw and a crosscut sled. I used polyurethane to seal my jigs and wax occasionaly. I have had no difficulties. I also use mini-t trac in miter slot and HDPE Graingers is a more economical resource for HDPE than woodworker supply house

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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I use oak runners in a variety of appliccations. They are used on my shop built tenoning jig for table saw and a crosscut sled. I used polyurethane to seal my jigs and wax occasionaly. I have had no difficulties. I also use mini-t trac in miter slot and HDPE Graingers is a more economical resource for HDPE than woodworker supply house
I took a peak at Granger, but all I could find was 3/4" square rods and they weren't cheap. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place

I bought a 3/4"x 3/8 flat metal stock. but it had rounded edges making it a little to wide. I wish I knew someone with a machine shop to grind the sides down
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 08:22 PM
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I used white birch (it's what I have available in great quantity) for the runners on my crosscut sled and they stick out either side a ways. Haven't had any problem in 7 or 8 years. I didn't finish it with anything. If they get sticky I find parafin works well.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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I used white birch (it's what I have available in great quantity) for the runners on my crosscut sled and they stick out either side a ways. Haven't had any problem in 7 or 8 years. I didn't finish it with anything. If they get sticky I find parafin works well.
Thanks Chuck!
If it lasts a year I'll be happy. I'm going to make a level hanger on the back of my Router cabinet to store it so that the oak is hanging plumb. Maybe it will not change. I wounder if waxing it now might help to preserve it or cause it to bend.

I've also thought about building outriggers on each side of the table so that I can tie in the end of the oak strip for alignment support to keep it square.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 03:46 AM
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if you start getting slop instead of changing the wood drill some holes and add some brass screws...oak is durable enough that the threads in the wood will remain tight...then you can adjust the slop as your wood changes with the weather. I did that tonight on a strip of oak on my RT square that I made and it has about a 1/64" (im very anal)of play and the screws made it nice and tight. As for getting a bow in the wood try attaching some angle iron or a thick strip of hard wood if space allows it to one of the edges. FYI...if you do use brass first screw in a regular screw to cut the initial threading then use the brass screw.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 08:16 AM
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By the way Johnny, I found when using my crosscut sled that there is a "sweet spot" for where I put my hand to push. It's just off to the side of the runner a little and varies slightly with the size of the piece on it. If your runner is too tight it will bind and then you can induce torque trying to push which can make an irregular cut. i think it's more important to find that balance spot than it is to try and remove 100% of the freeplay.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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if you start getting slop instead of changing the wood drill some holes and add some brass screws...oak is durable enough that the threads in the wood will remain tight...then you can adjust the slop as your wood changes with the weather. I did that tonight on a strip of oak on my RT square that I made and it has about a 1/64" (im very anal)of play and the screws made it nice and tight. As for getting a bow in the wood try attaching some angle iron or a thick strip of hard wood if space allows it to one of the edges. FYI...if you do use brass first screw in a regular screw to cut the initial threading then use the brass screw.
Hi Kyriakos, I used 3 screws to hold it mainly because the melamine is on both sides of the piece. I thought it would help it slide better, but didn’t leave much to glue to. I don’t know if there is a difference between brass and steel, I used steel.

I wish my cross piece were a little longer so I could add the outriggers to it. It was already the size of the table when I pulled it out if the scrap pile and I just ripped one edge to assure it was straight for the fence. The fence also had melamine on both sides so I cut a dado in it so I had something to glue to.

I didn’t cut the fence to size, so it’s what it was when I pulled it out and I just eyeballed it to center. I thought I might use the extra length for clamping stop blocks or something and it looks like I could attach outriggers to it if I had to.

I don’t know, that 3/4" x 3/8” piece of wood just don’t appear to be able to handle any torque and maybe it will be OK once inside the slot. The slot should help keep the oak from flexing. I guess I’ll find out when my dovetail bit gets here. One thing for sure is that I’ll be checking it before each use.
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