Ok, first, take a look at the router workshop videos at this url: www.woodworkingchannel.com
Follow the tab to videos, then look for "the router workshop" and then start watching them like you've found a new religion.
I say this because there are two philosophies when it comes to router tables, "The Router Workshop" and everyone else. I espouse the RW philosophy simply because of simplicity and elegance. It is simple, works like a charm, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Now, I'm on my 5th standard base plate table and I'm working on my last two table tops. There are five in all, standard, torsion, ski, template/vertical and pivot frame. I'll post a few pictures of placements in the next day or so.
I realize granite may not be the best material (especially the large flake stuff i currently have) but i acquired 8 slabs so why not try. I will start another post on my lessons learned and tools used on working with the granite as i have found next to nothing on the topic. I've had great success so far with some test cuts and cheap boxstore special blades but have a more professional blade on the way. I am only using a cheapo skillsaw with a custom guide rail and water.
I did the same sort of operation using a skil circular saw and diamond blade on concrete. My suggestions:
1. take an old nylon stocking and fit it over the motor on the circular saw.
2. use a segmented diamond blade.
3. I used a garden spray can to keep the blade wet.
4. There are also diamond reciprocating saw blades that you can use.
5. disassemble and clean the circular saw every few hours. The swarf gets stuck in the saw like glue and it doesn't come free easily.
6. when you've burnt out all of your saws, go rent a specialized one, connect a hose to it and do the job in a fraction of the time. I hated the Hilti but found the Makita not bad to manhandle.
7. Good luck and keep us posted.
I burned up two scrap circular saws in the process: the skil and a Porter Cable. I cried when the skil died and laughed when the PC quit. Too bad too, the PC was my only left-handed saw. I liked the idea but the PC implementation was problematic and became dangerous to use.
so for you out there that use a router table in the right side of your tablesaw, would this work for you? or any advice on my router plate placement?
What kind of work are you going to do? My table tops are all 2'x4' (except ski and pivot frame, of course) and the baseplate seats are located in various locations around the top. For small stuff you want to look down on the top of the bit so you want it close to the edge. For big stuff, you want lots of infeed and outfeed so you locate it more to the linear centre. If you're doing large panel stuff you want lots of support so you locate it to one side and in the linear centre.
On to the cabinet....
My cabinet will fully rest on the mobile base and be adjustable to dial the granite top flat with my saw. The central cabinet is 13.5" deep to fit PC 7518 and woodpeck lift. Dust collection will be from back of cabinet and from center of fence.
On the right, the top drawer is 5" for wrenches, and other necessary tools, followed by two 4" and a 5" drawer for bits.
Middle row has another drawer on top, bottom drawer is 11" tall to accomodate tablesaw blades.
on the left the top cubicle is open for the auxiliary fence and other larger jigs. Below it are two more drawers for jigs, tools, etc.
Where are you going to store your routers? You don't buy just one, you collect them for a variety of purposes. I use milk crates for mine.