Face frame with tongue-and-groove bit - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Default Face frame with tongue-and-groove bit

Hi everyone,

First post here, and have been slowly inching my way into the wide world of routers for a few months now.

I'm going to put a medicine cabinet together soon with some spare oak (for the mirrored door) and oak ply (for the cabinet). I was thinking for the door I would basically use a tongue-and-groove set to put the frame together and then use the groove bit in the set to cut a slot down the middle of the frame on all sides (before assembly) in which to mount the mirror.

Does that sound viable? I am open to other ways of doing it (not super excited about the aesthetics of pocket screws, but Beadlock looks pretty cool), but I'd rather practice my routing skills and do it right.

Is there a better way to do this? I have about $110 to spend on tools, which would go towards the bit set ($60 for the Freud) and a 1/2" collet router ($47 for a refurb Skill). I've been feeling pretty limited in 1/4" shank anyway with my Colt and older Craftsman (table-mounted).

Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gsk3 View Post
I was thinking for the door I would basically use a tongue-and-groove set to put the frame together and then use the groove bit in the set to cut a slot down the middle of the frame on all sides (before assembly) in which to mount the mirror.
If the mirror is later damaged, you'll have to disassemble or rebuild the door frame. Better, I think, to rabbet the back side of the door and secure the mirror with a wood moulding, spline, or retainer clips. Or you could use a rail & stile bit set made for glass/mirror doors.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 01:14 PM
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Brett; you need to be able to replace the mirror if necessary. Also the mirror should have a backer panel to protect the silvering, and for mechanical support and protection.
A rabbeted back allows for dropping those two pieces in from the rear and then fixing them in place with a very small moulding or ?...
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 02:34 PM
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Brett; you need to be able to replace the mirror if necessary.
Yep, that was the point that I didn't make very clear. If the mirror was mounted in a groove, you couldn't replace it without gluing up a new door.

I haven't tried it yet myself (it's a future project) but the router bit set I linked to cuts a rail profile front & back. You then rip the back one off...creating the rabbet...and use it as a retainer moulding.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 04:32 PM
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Excellent!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, that makes sense. I have a nice Freud rabbeting set so it's pretty feasible to rabbet the inside edges for the mirror, then use picture frame tacks or similar to hold it in.

I was thinking of buying a tongue-and-groove set instead of a rail-and-style set primarily because it's cheaper. That said, the primary consideration is having this look reasonably nice (and get myself set up for future cabinet work), so if I have to spend the extra $40 for a r&s set I'll definitely do it. The Freud Adjustable set looks particularly nice, and if I had to I could swing the $120 + $50 for the router.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 04:51 PM
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Hi

Do it All with one set.
3-Pc Glass Panel Set-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Plus get the video b/4 you get any thing going you will be glad you did.
Glass Panel Doors Made Easy-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

How-To-Video see below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TQZp...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeCNNkifm5o
Like they say
I can show you the water but I can't make you drink




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Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
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Last edited by bobj3; 06-02-2012 at 12:13 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 08:25 AM
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Go with the rail and style bit set, You can get a decent one from MLCS. What ever you use be sure to paint the inside of the groove (or in your case stain it) because you will see it when you look in the mirror. I have made several and have found that a pocket hole screw gives added protection against the frame coming apart. I fill the pocket hole with wood putty, sand it and paint it. Also if you use the rail and style bit get a plate glass mirror because it is thicker.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 11:57 AM
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Bump ,,,I talk about the magic number of 4 all the time,in the video above he will show all about it..

--




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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 06-02-2012 at 12:15 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, well the budget has been upgraded substantially in the interests of having something that I will be able to use for the long term.

So I've purchased a Bosch 1617 with the table base, which gets me 1/2" shank, top-of-table adjustment, and variable speed.

Now I just need the bit.

I'm sorely tempted by the Freud Adjustable bit set with additional cutter for glass doors. I know I've been led to water and I should just drink the Sommerfield, but it seems like for $30 more I get a whole lot more versatility with the Freud. And I most of the doors I would likely build in the future are not going to have glass in them, and most of them are likely to be panel doors (where the shimming would be nice). It also looks like I could change profiles for much less than the cost of a new bit set.

So other than price (which I will cope with, pun possibly intended), what's wrong with the Freud set?
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