Alright I've come to a cross road. I was into building my first router table, even picked up material & ordered T Tracks off Ebay. When I realized why am I building a whole new table when I can fabricate one into the extra extension wing I have, on my Grizzly Table Saw. So what would you do? I am somewhat space restricted, but would like the best table that would produce the best results. Heres where I'm at so far
I was just starting to build my router table over a stand that held my 500gal habitat. Its a sturdy stand that I can incorporate cabinets later, or shelving at the least. So I bought a sheet of 2 'x 4' MDF in 3/4", 1/2", & 1/4"
Plan on laying 4'x2' 1/2" Ply over 3.5' x 1.6' frame of stand Which I'll I'd supports after laying everything out. So I can see where there most needed.
3/4" MDF over Ply
Plate Insert = 1/4 " hard board(?) scrap (Looks very similar to MDF) 10.5" x 7.75" with
16GA Weld Steel Sheet 8"x18" over top Scrap Hard Board, Thought the sheet metal would add nice effect as well as better support from sag & Moistrue as well as less friction after applying Johnson Paste Wax.
Now as you can see in the picture I was leaving the sheet metal a little bigger, is this a Rabbit you'd rather not pull out of a hat
or is it possible, preferable?
Saying this is the way to go, Next I'd
use the same technique to inlay the hard board into the MDF (And the reason for plate inserts is to act as (Or be the same with as your guide plate.) Cause just cutting out a circle in the MDF would leave me with 3/4" to compensate for so that the router bits effective.
Then I'd lay out Dado's for the T Tracks
2 From the router bit back (How far apart should each one be from center of bit, and how long would you make your fence. And any fence Ideas are more then welcome.
Or do you think
Adding it to the table saw extension wing, would be better. Or how would I go about it.
First Off what side of the bit must I keep my work pc (Left side of bit (attached to table) would be my cutting side? Cause it does matter right?
I would lay it out the same way I did on the MDF, I've got a Milwaukee Hole Saw Set that I used on the sheet metal. Think it'd handle cast iron? If not I can torch it out then grind it down to a smooth surface. Tap and counter sink the holes for attaching the router. I didn't ask this earlier but do I leave off the guide plate when I attach the router to the table. (The plate or template I took off the router to mark where the holes go.) And is that it? Should I leave the Plunge Base attached to the motor or use the body grip. I was thinking plunge base cause then I't kinda be like having a lift system. Or am I'm way off here.
Something I should mention. This is my first router, First router Its a Milwaukee 5616 with plunge base and body glove base. and although I , used Dremel & Roto Zip up until now I'm still Kermit The Frog (Green) on a lot of this.
Using the fence system and saving of space makes this choice more attractive to me. Barring no complication factors. I would have to cut through the support molds that come off the underside of the extension wing. But that shouldn't be to hard.
I hope I covered everything here. I know if your reading this you really stuck it out with me. I thank you so much! I'm sorry if this dragged on in any part. I must erase and reword a 100 times before I post, so if anything is choppy please forgive me. I just try to make it as easy as possible to follow along. Although it might not look that way lol Cant wait to hear your thoughts and ideas
I could save the material I just purchased for other projects, jigs, and to add on to the fence system I already have should I