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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-11-2012, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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Default Building Router table for table saw

I have decided to add a router table to my table saw to save some space. My question is, would 3/4" MDF base and 3/8" UHMW top be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the router?
Would 3/4" Plywood be better for the base?
Does using UHMV for the top make sense? Will it adhere to the base with contact cement? I have only used it for zero Clearance inserts, very laminated it as a top.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Brian
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 01:07 AM
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You don't need the UHMW for a top unless you really want it. The mdf will work fine. I am not a big advocate of combining saw and router. If you need to save a setup you can't use the other. I saw something on ebay the other day which was a splendid idea. Some company put folding table legs under a router table. That means that you can easily store it out of the way when you are not using it. Folding table legs sell for about $30 per pair. Not a deal breaker. Put a ladder style frame under your table with crosspieces close to your router insert, that's all you need.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Repcobpg View Post
I have decided to add a router table to my table saw to save some space. My question is, would 3/4" MDF base and 3/8" UHMW top be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the router?
Would 3/4" Plywood be better for the base?
Does using UHMV for the top make sense? Will it adhere to the base with contact cement? I have only used it for zero Clearance inserts, very laminated it as a top.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Brian
I've used this medium for miter slides, router plates and table saw inserts. (all resting in slots and screwed in) Around here, they have been selling these large, very inexpensive cutting boards made from UHMV... I never thought about making a whole tool table from it...

I would think that it would hold the weight... with the real challenge is rather of adhering anything to UHMV. Back around 2005, no-one thought that a hobbiest could glue anything to it. (a slick surface that nothing sticks to...) That has changed since. It usually takes a 2 part adhesive/epoxy that will stick to roughed up polyethlene.

Bostik 7087, Bostik 7133, Tra-Bond 2143D, EA 9412, EA 9460, Plastilock 601,
Scotch Grip 4693, Realtec BondiT B-45 or Real BondiT B-46, 3M DP-8005 and Loctite 3030 are all epoxy products specifically designed to stick to polyethylene.

Bostik 6384 and 6390, 3M-3762 and Loctite 1943 are hot-melt adhesives.

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 06-12-2012 at 06:00 PM.
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