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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-02-2012, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default tongue and groove

What cut should be cut first in tonuge and groove??
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-02-2012, 05:05 PM
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Matters not, the way I cut them.
Use a straight bit to cut the tongue (= amounts/side of stock) and a slotter to create the groove. Groove also cut from either side; that maneuver will center the slot.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 07:22 AM
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As with mortise and tenon, I would suggest you cut the groove first. Then you can adjust the tongue to get the best possible fit.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 07:37 AM
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If using a properly set up tongue and groove router bit set, it matters not which cut is first.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 07:38 AM
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Pat; That was a little confusing; did i miss something?
I get the "cutting from either side" concept, but wouldn't that apply more to the tongue rather than the groove? Don't you do the groove in one pass?
I like the idea of the two pass system for it's centering function but won't that leave you (potentially) with a loose fit?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 08:59 AM
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A slotter will not necessarily remove an equal volume of stock/pass
face but the second pass on the obverse will center the slot.
Try on scrap.
All bets are off if the desired slot width is >2x the thickness of the slotter, however.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 10:23 AM
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Ah, got it!
I've got 250 lin.' of cedar to do, and the matched bit set made sense, especially since it was on sale...
Dimar Tongue and Groove 2 Piece Router Bits [DIM-WP143 ] - $62.99 : KMS Tools & Equipment from Vancouver BC, Selling quality tools at affordable prices all over Canada. Largest powertool, handtool and woodworking machinery retailer in Canada.
It's really only practical for 5/8"+ material. I think I like your system for 1/2" + stock.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 11:17 AM
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Hi Bill

For me I like to use the "tonuge" bit, 1st. and then use the groove bit,it makes it easy to setup the 2nd. bit dead on,with the male part in place you just need to use it to line up the 2nd. bit for the pass.

They make a sale many T & G sets it's always best to buy one the will do 1" wide stock or wider,you can always use it for thin stock but not the other way around..

Here's one I suggest,it will do it all at a great price..

11pc 1/4" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set | eBay

11pc 1/2" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set | eBay

You will see I suggest buying the 1/4" shank size, in that way you can use it any router you have...but you can get it in the 1/2" size if you want..

I must have 10 or more T & G sets and the one above is the one I use all the time..

Note you get a cutter for 1/4" plywood (undersize) and 3/8" cutter that's not the norm for most sets..

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What cut should be cut first in tonuge and groove??


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 12:03 PM
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"Note you get a cutter for 1/4" plywood (undersize) and 3/8" cutter that's not the norm for most sets.. "
Sweet!!
Do they (anybody) make graduated spacers for TS dado sets? Not the fine spacers which add very thin adjustments, but rather large washers graduated say by 1/16ths?
Or is there a specific hazard to doing tongues that way?
(A sacrificial fence goes without saying!)
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-03-2012, 12:05 PM
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It just occurred to me that 7 1/4 blank saw blades might work(?)...
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