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-   -   Corian for a router table with lift? (https://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/44083-corian-router-table-lift.html)

Kooshball 11-27-2013 09:07 PM

Corian for a router table with lift?
 
I am looking for materials for my router top build and thought that a sink cutout from a cabinet shop in Corian might work well. The main question I have is the required clearance from edges with regard to screw locations. Will the screws used to mount the router plate be too close to the edge of the cutout to hold properly?

Thx

Semipro 11-27-2013 10:07 PM

Hello and welcome to the forum.
The standard kitchen sink cut out is around 33"x22" , if you are building the table I guess you can place the router where you want.

Cherryville Chuck 11-28-2013 01:16 AM

If you are using screws to hold the plate down, it's not necessary. Many of us don't bother with them. Gravity will work just fine if the plate fits the rabbet snugly. If you are using them to level with I would try to sneak up on the right depth of rabbet so that you don't need them.

walowan 12-03-2013 11:30 AM

Corian does not have much structural strength. Depending on how heavy your router is a table that size could eventually sag in the center. If properly supported as close to the router as possible it might be ok. Corian does take screws ok but if too close to the edge and not properly pre drilled will chip out eaisly. For any attachments I would through drill and use nuts and bolts....

Bastien 12-03-2013 02:27 PM

My concern would be cracking the corion if you clamp something down. Isn't that stuff sort of brittle. It also would be poor at absorbing vibration.

MAFoElffen 12-03-2013 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walowan (Post 361780)
Corian does not have much structural strength. Depending on how heavy your router is a table that size could eventually sag in the center. If properly supported as close to the router as possible it might be ok. Corian does take screws ok but if too close to the edge and not properly pre drilled will chip out eaisly. For any attachments I would through drill and use nuts and bolts....

A top is not an island... Meaning it depends on the frame of the stand you mount it to (the structure underneath) and how it is braced below the top. That is how it gets strength from base cabinets it is mounted to normally.

If there is a large void, where sagging would be a concern with that, then you could brace with stretchers underneath it.

To the OP-

My rule of thumb (personal preferences for me) for building router tables is to have the bit center at 2/3rds back from the front edge. Where the top is "large" (such as in my jobsite multi-purpose table) then I locate the bit center at a comfortable distance from the front edge (for me, 17" to 24") and the same from the right edge. I square the tops, with at least a square between the front edge and right edge... as I sometimes use these 2 edges as "guides" for jigs and sleds.

Light bulb... Maybe I should make a "just for sale" top out of one of the granite scraps I have here... Just to see how it comes out. Hmmm.

Cherryville Chuck 12-03-2013 05:12 PM

You can buy granite topped table saws now.

fire65 12-03-2013 08:02 PM

I work with solid surface quite a bit, Wilsonart installer. I would advise against it, I think the holes will crack out under the stress of a router. Solid surface is not strong until installed, very easy to break it.
If you do use it please keep us informed on how it works out.


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