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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Question cutting blind dados

I am building a spice cabinet and want to attach shelves to the inside of the doors using centered blind dadoes. I have done half blind dadoes on the router table but am not sure just how to go about cutting full blind dadoes. It seems like the trick would be in lowering the workpiece onto the bit. That seems both tricky and dangerous. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 02:05 AM
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Router Workshop: clamping mitre gauge

They no loner sale the jig but you can make your own easy.

The key to the jig is the brass guide in the router table top, it makes it safe and easy....

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I am building a spice cabinet and want to attach shelves to the inside of the doors using centered blind dadoes. I have done half blind dadoes on the router table but am not sure just how to go about cutting full blind dadoes. It seems like the trick would be in lowering the workpiece onto the bit. That seems both tricky and dangerous. I would appreciate any suggestions.



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Last edited by bobj3; 12-01-2013 at 02:17 AM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 04:04 AM
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It is dangerous to drop a board on a spinning bit. I would try to do it with a plunge router instead. If you feel you really need to do it on a table I would clamp a board down on the table that keeps your piece tight to the fence and then clamp a start block on the infeed side of your fence and another stop block on the outfeed fence. I would stop the router when the cut is finished and wait for it to stop spinning before lifting your work up.

I don't know how close your fingers will be to the bit when you are lowering the board down but if the bit should throw your workpiece, they will be too close and that is the problem with doing that way.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 06:46 AM
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Hi Gary, welcome to the forum.

You do not say how small this spice cabinet is, but I would tend to agree with Charles and but I would use a plunge router with an edge guide.

I made a jig similar to the one shown by bobj3, but would not use it for blind dados.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccazgary View Post
I am building a spice cabinet and want to attach shelves to the inside of the doors using centered blind dadoes. I have done half blind dadoes on the router table but am not sure just how to go about cutting full blind dadoes. It seems like the trick would be in lowering the workpiece onto the bit. That seems both tricky and dangerous. I would appreciate any suggestions.
It's not dangerous to lower the work piece onto the bit, as long as you are aware of what you're doing and keep a firm grip on the piece. It's a perfectly normal way of making blind dadoes. Google for videos or take a look at Somerfeld Tools. His videos show most things being carried out on a router table. You will need some form of fence and stop block/s or marks on the fence to guide you to the lowering point and the stopping point.

Regards,

Alan.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 11:17 AM
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James how about a picture of your jig...

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Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
Hi Gary, welcome to the forum.

You do not say how small this spice cabinet is, but I would tend to agree with Charles and but I would use a plunge router with an edge guide.

I made a jig similar to the one shown by bobj3, but would not use it for blind dados.



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Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 11:46 AM
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Lowing wood on to a bit is the MOST dangerous thing you can do on the router table,you are trapping the bit in the stock,it's a sure way to break router bits,the bit just can't get the chips out of the way of the bit..and a dovetail bit is a real no no it likes to jam the chips in the pocket..just like a key hole/tee slot bit so to speak...

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Originally Posted by WurliTzerwilly View Post
It's not dangerous to lower the work piece onto the bit, as long as you are aware of what you're doing and keep a firm grip on the piece. It's a perfectly normal way of making blind dadoes. Google for videos or take a look at Somerfeld Tools. His videos show most things being carried out on a router table. You will need some form of fence and stop block/s or marks on the fence to guide you to the lowering point and the stopping point.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccazgary View Post
I am building a spice cabinet and want to attach shelves to the inside of the doors using centered blind dadoes. I have done half blind dadoes on the router table but am not sure just how to go about cutting full blind dadoes. It seems like the trick would be in lowering the workpiece onto the bit. That seems both tricky and dangerous. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Gary I would never cut dados on a router table as there is no point and no advantage, it would be a lot of effort for no reward and there is no point or reason to use a router table, this assumes that you are referring to the traditional use of the term dado, I would do grooving on a router table and some persons have used the word dado when they mean 'groove' I have a thread called 'Grooving and Tennoning Joint Construction' and I do refer to dado joints in that so you should read it, I would only ever drop a work item onto a cutter if there was a very good reason as it is not hard to make a normal dado jig and do the dado trench with a normal hand held router, dados are often done with a dado blade in a saw table but I have said why I never do that in the mentioned thread. NGM
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WurliTzerwilly View Post
It's not dangerous to lower the work piece onto the bit, as long as you are aware of what you're doing and keep a firm grip on the piece. It's a perfectly normal way of making blind dadoes. Google for videos or take a look at Somerfeld Tools. His videos show most things being carried out on a router table. You will need some form of fence and stop block/s or marks on the fence to guide you to the lowering point and the stopping point.
+1 to a point...

I can't say it's right for others... But I do it. For instance- creating a slot while using a router table. I've done the same with Table saws. But with certain technique and precaution. I also use a foot switch so I can kill it at any time without needing to use my hands.

If it will be a small workpiece I usually start out in a bigger piece that I am going to cut down to size later. Or I put it in a jig to hold it. Sometimes I'l clamp it in a router sled or coping sled.

Then I set my fence to where it needs to be in reference to the edge. (If not using a sled) After that, I mark my fence for the starting point and stopping point references. I then set fence stops.

I set the depth to 1/16 inch to start. Lower the work and start the cut (hands nowhere near the bit.) The hardest it that first cut. I don't take big bites.

The DC on my router table will clear chips from down below. I sued to have problem with even standard dado's on the router table until I fixed the DC on that table.

On my panel saw I can clamp the work to my slider, turn on the saw with the blade down. Raise the blade slightly. Move the slider. (marks on magnetic backed PVC tape on my table.Adjust the depth. Hit one of the kill switches to when done to stop.

Once down, I kill the machine before lifting it up. (RT or saw)

I've also done by raising and lowering the bit from the workpiece...

But as you've said, easier and safer when you can see what you are doing (overhead router or freehand router).

BJ- Really?

I guess I don't see that as abnormal (right or wrong) as that's how I was taught by my mentors years ago.

Would like to hear more "reasoning" on the why not. Maybe I've been doing that wrong all these years. I never claimed to know everything, just what I've been exposed to. I could be wrong. I just need to hear the logic in that. Please educate me.

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http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2010/10/14/rout-a-slot/

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 12-01-2013 at 09:01 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 05:30 PM
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James how about a picture of your jig...

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I made a post on it BJ. I will see if I can find it.

Just catching up on the forum between washing loads.......LOL

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