Positioning Router in Table Top
I'm building my own table and attempting an exhaustive list of characteristics and attributes that I'd like to see in the end result and I could use a sounding board on the design attributes list as it stands and how to determine the actual placement on the table top. Distance from front / back sides etc.
The table size is shaping up as 36" wide x 24" deep, maple trim, with two fold up extensions of 18" x 24" on each side making it 72" x 24". One of my goals is to make the tongue and groove flooring for my sailboat. So being capable of a long run and still being tight and accurate is important to me. Ergo the attribute list does not include dual adjustable fence faces for joiner functionality.
Actually this is the List of Attributes as it stands;
Safe, Accurate, Flexible, Clean, Quiet
41 Tall Table
Hinge Top Accessible / Functional
Hinge Side Panel Extensions
1]Act as Extension 2]Hold the Hinge Top Open 3]Fold Out of the Way
Quiet Insulated Router compartment
Base with leveling capability
Mobile - Wheel Barrel Base or Bearing Base
- When off the wheels it is completely off all wheels and stable on floor
Dust Pickup from Fence and Router Shroud Pick up - Triton TRA001
- Leading to: No dust managing fluting in Router mount compartment
Dust Pickup plug in front behind fake drawer front.
Electrical Switch / Receptacle Access (2 Sides)
Halogen Spot Light on Flex Neck Built In
Micro Adjustable Super Ridged Fence with Micrometer
Can have fence completely removed for free hand routing
PIN Router Mode Capable
Pantograph Mode Capable
My next step is to layout the internal shelving and drawers and that I believe to be a function of the "Router Placement" in the top. Is there anything I should hear before I simply center it and move forward? See attached pictures. Several of the tables I've looked at pull the mounting plate to within 4 1/2" of the edge on one side. I'd like to understand the pros and cons of that placement. Other designs have a large long open space behind the fence for the Incra system. I'm not going that rout. Is there another reason for open real estate behind the fence?
Most of the fences on the market close the space on either side of the bit with sliding fence plates to minimize the tear out related to free float near the cutting edge. Another design I reviewed by-passes this function and uses hardboard for sacrificial zero clearance inserts. One for each bit. It looked very intriguing and I'd like to hear some commentary on how helpful sliding fence plates actually are. I could actually drop the ball here and make two fences and I wouldn't be heart broken, but I'd love to hear how seasoned table users feel about the subject.
Besides bits, what actually goes in the drawers in a router table cabinet and is there something I should make sure to size those spaces for?
This fence design pivots the whole fence on a base plate with an adjusting threaded bolt at one end, a hinge at the other, and a $8 HF micrometer in the middle. It makes the whole thing a bit large. Is this going to be a problem? I could cut down on some of the mass by making the base plate aluminum but it starts to drive the cost. Heck the rider fence could be aluminum angle as well but again I'm thinking it drives the cost for minimal benefit. Too stingy??
The router could be off set towards the hinge making the adjust-ability finer, but I'm concerned with stability and have it drawn at center. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts. - Tim
Step 1 - Do. Step 2 Fail. Step 3 Learn. Step 4 Do Again.
Alternative > Step 1 - Ask. Step 2 Do.