So I've just received the Grizzly T10432 router table. Have it all put together save mounting the router into the plate... I have read all the posts I can find on this, and am probably over-thinking things, but want to double check a few things before I commit with the drill press!

FYI - I'm expecting the Rousseau centering kit any day now, so I plan to use this.

1) Does it matter what type of drill bits I use (phenolic plate)? I have a pretty standard set of drill bits, but nothing special. What size make sense? I have read you want a little slop in the screw holes, so assuming a hair bigger than the mounting screws makes sense.

2) countersinking... Any tips on which style and size to get? I haven't had to do this before, so don't have a countersink bit. There seems to be a combination tapered bit/countersink all in one, or the dedicated 'V' shape countersink bits that all seem to be set to 82 degrees, but come in multiple sizes (1/4" - 3/4" or so). All are about $5-10 (pics attached)

3) Lastly, any speed recommendations for the drill press?

If it helps, I'll be mounting a Bosch router (MRC23).
Thanks - can't wait to get this table routing!

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Hi Chris. In my humble opinion I wouldn't use a tapered bit to countersink. If you use a tapered countersink you will get no "slop" on the screw holes. You are right, you do need "slop" to be able to have movement to centre the router, so a flat bottomed countersink and matching screws is the way I would go. Possibly a Forsner bit will do the job. I have the same job to do on an aluminum plate so I will look at the replies you get with interest. Oldrusty

Hi Chris, I have drilled a few hole for different plates. I don't like a tapered hole since you are stuck and can't fit the router to the if you aren't dead-on center. Like Al said, I use a Forsner bit first (make sure you don't drill too deep), then use a slightly oversize drill bit for the screw. Don't use 82 degree tapered head screws - use pan head. Malcolm / Kentucky USA

If You are getting a centering kit, There should be information about how to go about the procedure. I would do this: You will have to mark out the center hole for the shaft. I have made my own, but make sure that when You mark the center, that all the holes needed are dead center! You will be asked to take the finish plate from the bottom od the router. These plates can also be used to get the holes marked when nothing else is there. If I under stand what kit You are talking about, there will be a centering bit included with the kit. I made My own plate from a piece of heavy laminate that was used for flooring in heavy traffic, so once I marked My mounting holes from the router plate that I took off the router, I carefully marked around the hole that was in the original router plate, but, DON"T use that hole to mark the center hole, It can be used as reference only I installed a 1/4" in, or 1/2" pointed router bit, and rotated the router by hand to mark that center plate hole after the router was mounted to the new plate. Then I uninstalled the plate, and carefully cut out the hole for the shaft. I drill that hole with a special boring tool that actually uses a 1/8 in metal cutting bit, and can be used to cut a stepped hole. In order to be able to use all of the different bits, I would get a good bushing kit with all the sizes of the center holes for clearance . All of those bushings will use the same external holes to fit the stepped hole that You drill. Also, the brass bushings will fit into a special adapter bushing! I know that I don't call the bushings by the correct name, so I am sorry for that! here's hoping that this will give You some help. and avery one can do this, I believe! Good luck! By the way, Grizzly's, and Rockler have the boreing bit I used, and also the bushings that are used on the plate that mounts the router!

Thanks for the info everyone - sounds like a forstner bit is the way to go! Not sure why I hadn't thought of this, as I do have a set on hand.

Now I just await the centering kit.