End of wood routed deeper than rest - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default End of wood routed deeper than rest

Hi all, have a crappy craftsman plastic router table. Has a plastic fence with adjustable guides to open or close the area to each side of the bit, no matter what I try cannot keep the last part/inch of the wood being routed from being cut 'deeper' than the rest. Aside from buying another any help appreciated.
Thanks

Pete in Coastal NC
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 03:24 PM
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Pete,

You can put a sacrifical fence over your plastic fence, then bury the bit into the fence or make a very small window into the piece.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 05:52 PM
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That sounds like "snipe".

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 10:39 PM
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I agree with James. Have you tried putting a straight edge across both fences after it is tightened down? I'm also wondering if you are putting so much side pressure on your work that you are bending the fence in. Being that it is plastic it could flex.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 10:05 AM
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Hi Pete, if the table top is not flat the begin and end of the cut will be cut deeper. In my younger days I had a plastic router table and it did just that. Put a straight edge over the router table to see if it is flat. If not you could make your own table and probably cost less than what you paid. I have eight router tables and all are shop-made. Years ago a company contacted me to evaluate their router tables. They asked how many tables I owned and the brand. I explained that I like to custom build what I have a need for and that I had purchased two plastic tables and had trouble with both. I make them the height, size and features that I want. They still wanted me to evaluate 8 or 10 tables that they had and most were acceptable and well made. There was only one plastic one and I gave them my honest opinion of each. Malcolm / Kentucky USA

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 12:38 PM
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I had a table like you described. It had the split fence. The problem I encountered was when that last 1" passed over the opening the wood had a tendency to dip slightly and caused the problem you have. As Doug suggested bury the bit so the hole is as small as possible so the work piece can't dip inward and remains flat.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 01:31 PM
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Default Plastic Router Table

I think a plastic Router Table might work very well to hold a jigsaw or saber saw mounted permenantly. I had a table by Sears just like the one you have. It sagged in the middle from the weight of the router. I shimmed the router from undernieth to get the table level, but there was still some snipe at the last inch of the cut. I tried to adjust the fence in all ways you can think of, with NO success. I gave away that table to a Lady who mounted her jigsaw in it. Works great for her!!.
I have a used Veritas RT system now and NO more agrivations like the b4 mentioned. I do hope you can get a better RT. There are so many friends here to help.
Have a great weekend.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all, I shall try some of the kind suggestions, and if is still a crappy table, may have to try a table build. By the way the router that came with it is crappy also. I have a handheld craftsman from over 25 years ago, works better than the 'new junk'

Pete in Coastal NC
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 09:04 AM
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Are you using a bit with a bearing with the fence?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Tom, no to that, just the low end craftsman bits, no bearings.
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Originally Posted by Tom King View Post
Are you using a bit with a bearing with the fence?

Pete in Coastal NC
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