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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router table fence questions

I just started building my router table fence, using scraps from around the shop. So far, so good, but I have questions ...

My fence will have a sliding lower part to open and close depending on the bit size. Above that, it will have a T-track for things like stop blocks, guards, or feather boards, and then the top will be stationary.

I will post build pics soon ...

Questions: how tall is that sliding part typically? Or in other words, how far off the table is typical for the T-track?

Also, the material I have happens to make the fence 7" tall. That seems awfully tall ... should I make it shorter?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 07:44 PM
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The answer is that it depends on what you are doing. For some jobs 7" may be too low. For doing raised panels with a vertical cutter it will be too short. The next fence I am planning on building will have several sets of interchangeable faces. My old one was about 3 1/2" tall and worked fine for most jobs (no t-track).

For stops, the farther from the table to the t-track the wider the stop would need to be to prevent torsion when you push a board against it. For a feather board it would have to be high enough to use the the one you have so probably around 5 to 7 inches.

The widest gap you'll ever have between the fences is a little more than 3 1/2" the diameter of a raised panel bit. Any feather board you'll find will bridge across that gap so you don't have to have a stationary portion above the sliding fences which means that you could make as many interchangeable faces for your fence body as you want. You can have t-track close to the table for stops, t-track up high for feather boards, short faces for average work, tall faces for vertical work (I plan on adding gussets at the ends for stability on those), or what ever you find you need. I plan on making one set with a piece of hardwood glued on at the inside edges with bull noses on them that I can adjust for routing curves.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. pics ...

I think I was too hasty about drilling the holes for the carriage bolts. They are probably too close to the edges to be able to slide out, I wanted to make the slot on the back piece, not the front piece.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 02:29 AM
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LOL- Where is the disclaimer label?:
"No Home Depot paint sticks were harmed in the building of this router fence..."

Good job! If you find that the back facing is too tall, you could always rip it down in height, then use interchangable different height curtain faces in front of that, tailored to what you're working on.

Most my router fences are between 3-1/2" to 5-1/2". But, like I suggested, I have various height curtain fences and lots of different thicknessed shims that go between the fence and the curtain faces.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 11:47 AM
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I haven't built the new table and fence(s) yet and it will be a while, maybe later this summer if I can move back home to BC from Alberta. I do have a couple of pictures of the last fence in my uploads. I put the slots in the faces but I don't think it makes a difference. If you butt the two halves together at dead center then they only need to be able to move 2" out each to accommodate the largest possible bit.

I've figured out, like Mike has, that if we use easily attachable/detachable faces that we can have a table that works for a wider variety of jobs. That includes putting the hole in the table closer to one edge instead of in the center.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAFoElffen View Post
LOL- Where is the disclaimer label?:
"No Home Depot paint sticks were harmed in the building of this router fence..."

Good job! If you find that the back facing is too tall, you could always rip it down in height, then use interchangable different height curtain faces in front of that, tailored to what you're working on.

Most my router fences are between 3-1/2" to 5-1/2". But, like I suggested, I have various height curtain fences and lots of different thicknessed shims that go between the fence and the curtain faces.
LOL. Actually, there is one paint stirrer in the mix ... it is a spacer behind the t-track ... the t-track is a tad under 1/2" tall, and the face is 3/4".

I like the idea of having totally replacable curtains. This thing is simple screwed together right now ... I was holding off on gluing until I was 100% sure everything was as desired. Maybe I'll just glue together the L shaped backing part, and make the front interchangable.

Also, I still need to add a port for my shop vac.
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