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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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I'm currently building a couple of karate belt display stands for my grandsons. Each unit looks like a floor model trophy. Their earned belts wind around a series of dowels.

To glue the dowels first into the base I want to build a jig that will hold them plumb while the glue dries. Would a cove bit give me a slot in the upright part of the jig that the dowel would fit in? The dowels are 1" and 3/4" diameter.

The jig would be a right angle triangle with extra support at the base. The dowel would rest in the routered slot until the glue dries.

Hope the description makes sense.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:36 PM
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I'm having trouble trying to visualize what you are trying to do Peter. Dowels should be inserted into a drilled hole in which case you don't need a jig to hold the dowel plumb.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:29 AM
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Hi peter, what size dowels are you using and how are you drilling the holes?

I am with Charles on this one....

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 03:51 AM
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I read this again a couple of times Peter and I think I see what you are trying. The floor standing trophy finally clicked. You will be using at least a 3/4" thick base so if you drill the holes with a good brad point bit or a Forstner on your drill press the holes should be tight enough to keep the dowels straight while the glue dries. Since the bottom won't show I would drill all the way through. You didn't say how thick the upper board will be but I would drill it as deep as possible.
Your biggest issue will be lining all the holes up between the two pieces so I would drill the holes in the correct positions through a scrap piece first and then use it as a guide to drill the other holes by clamping it to the pieces you will be using for the stand. That way all the holes will be in the same positions. I would glue it all at one time and then check to see if it is square. If it's not perfect a little twist or push should straighten it out and it should dry straight.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 08:54 AM
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Agree with Charles and James.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Charles & James, thanks for your responses.

The base and top are 3/4" stock.
The holes were drilled using a 3/4" and 1" forstner bits on my drill press.
The dowel fit is tight; however they are about 20 inches long.
Given that much length I was trying to help support them just while the glue dries.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 09:13 AM
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I would square up 4 pieces of scrap wood and attaché them to the side of the dowel with double sided tape resting them on the base to hold the dowel straight. I would also use wax paper between the scrap support pieces and the base to insure they don't get glued down

Dennis
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selwyn Senior View Post
Charles & James, thanks for your responses.

The base and top are 3/4" stock.
The holes were drilled using a 3/4" and 1" forstner bits on my drill press.
The dowel fit is tight; however they are about 20 inches long.
Given that much length I was trying to help support them just while the glue dries.
Peter if you have a corner you can shove it into that will work. A corner of a cupboard, a corner in your house or shop, anything along those lines. Push something against it once it's in the corner to hold it there. There's no reason to make it more complicated than it needs to be.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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