flex-shaft for Copy-Carver? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default flex-shaft for Copy-Carver?

I am using a shop built copy-carver to make the interior structure for the harp that I build. I'm using a 2 hp router for hoging off stock with an edged router bit. I then switch to a SABURR TOOTH™ power carving burr. I find that the 2 HP router makes it cumbersome, and that switching to very different bits makes alinement of the bit with the Burr tedious. Perhaps someone could suggest a flex shaft tool that would make both drawbacks easier to work with. It would have to use a 1/4" or larger chuck.
any thoughts?
Douglas/Arsalaan Fay
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Last edited by dharps; 04-09-2014 at 03:00 PM. Reason: grammer
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 05:50 PM
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I have been wanting to build a Harp
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 06:45 PM
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I would guess a flex shaft would bog down too much, unless you got one of the heavy duty ones that draw a couple amps (the old Foredom H, for example). I would still be skeptical, but it might work then. I have a couple Foredom CC's and I doubt they would work well. The newer DC ones might do better - I've heard they have more constant torque at all speeds compared to the older units like mine.

I've used a laminate trimmer with a 1/4" spiral bit in a homemade copy carver. That worked pretty well and wasn't as bulky as a full size router.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 08:15 PM
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cool project


above [link]site has: outdoors type things from fishing, hunting, boating, hiking, to living off grid, gardening from veggies to flowers etc, recipes from home cooking to smokers, hobbies, home remedies, to making your own soaps etc..live members chat area.. and more...all is welcome to browse or join..
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 07:00 AM
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I have tried a Foredom on my copy carver and it just doesn't have enough rpm speed for the router bits, and it is much slower with the "saburr' also.
I recommend using a trim router (smaller, lighter, can get into smaller places).
With the router bits I would intentionally set my router bit higher than my follower to leave a little extra material and then use the Burr for the final cut.
Remember that the "Copycarver" is not a good finishing tool and is not designed to be one unless you have a lot of time a patience. It is faster to hand finish the piece.
I really do enjoy my Copycarver and recommend one to anyone who is interested.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014, 08:13 AM
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Arsalaan, Welcome to the Router Forums!

That is a beautiful musical instrument you have produced! Congratulations on the excellent work. I do a bit of work with Crepe Myrtle - large diameters and that is the hardest wood I have ever worked with. It makes other "hard woods" look like peanut butter by comparison. It is a difficult wood to work with, but absolutely beautiful when finished. I found that MicroPlane tools will cut through it better than anything else that I have tried. Some of the MicroPlane tools are hand-held and others are designed to be "chucked-in-a-drill". I most often use mine when mounted in my drill press. In cleaning-out my (late) Dad's workshop, I came across a very heavy duty flex shaft that will connect easily to the drill dress. When the MicroPlane is then chucked in the business end of the flex shaft - you may have what you're looking for.

But let me warn you: It's kind of like watching a cat fight! It can be very difficult to get a feel for it at first - so start on scrap wood first!

I hope this helps!
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-14-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Friends: Thanks for all the feed back. I think that I will use a compact/trimmer router. Either a Ridgid or a Bosch. Any other suggestions?
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