Applying hardwood edge to an MDF top? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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Default Applying hardwood edge to an MDF top?


I've used drywall screws and titebond to laminate my router table top which is now laminated with Formica and sealer brushed on the underneath.

I've ripped up some oak on the bandsaw and planed it thickness, what's a good method of cutting the mitre joints for the edging?

After it's cut to size what's the best way to attach it? I don't have A biscuit jointer but I thought maybe epoxy would work?

After securing it to the top should I finish the trim with Danish oil or leave it bare?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 07:02 AM
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I also edged my MDF top with oak which I mitered using my miter saw, it was attached using wood glue and pocket screws. If you don't have a power miter saw a miter box could be used. Epoxy would work if that's all you have although I don't believe that the strength of epoxy is really necessary when wood glue would do the job. I applied 2 coats of polyurethane to the edging, mainly to seal it.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 07:26 AM
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Wood glue, and clamps that reach across the top. Miiter saw the corners, but if you don't have one there is nothing wrong with butt joints. I'd cut the two side pieces to match the top depth, then the front and back to cover their ends. Round off all the edges to take off the sharp.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 08:15 AM
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I make my mitres on relatively thin wood using the disc sander with the mitre gauge set up accurately. Using this method the lengths can be also be very accurate.
I use "Weldbond" a Canadian made wood glue that goes off quickly and produces a joint that is stronger than the wood. I use a few very thin panel pins to hold the edging strips in place, these can be partly driven in then removed when the glue is set in which case the holes are so small that no filler is normally needed, or of course the pins can be driven in and tapped below the surface with a punch. In the last shot you can see the edging strip on my 1" thick Chipboard removable bench top.
Have you not considered completing your profile so that at any time in the future members can check on the tools that you have also your level of woodworking experience.
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Last edited by harrysin; 04-22-2014 at 08:32 AM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 11:11 AM
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The Weldbond that Harry recommends is a good choice. Since I've started using Franklin's Melamine glue I won't use anything else for edge gluing mdf or particle board. Epoxy would be my last choice. Clamps should be enough to hold the bands on. For mitering the ends- a miter saw, a pull saw and miter box, or a table saw with a miter sled unless you have a really good fitting between the miter gauge that came with the saw and the saw guide slot.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 03:09 PM
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When I lip any MDF with hardwood I just use white wood glue and clamp it in place. I leave the edges slightly wider than the MDF and then use a router with a false base plate to trim it level with the surface. All it needs then is a quick flash over with the sander. The false base is a home made one that has a large flat base on one side and is stepped just beyond the cutter.
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