Building router table with two routers - Router Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Building router table with two routers

Guys after seeing kywoodchoppers router table that has two routers on the same table and dedicated fences for each ,it made me wonder if this would be a huge advantage for making accurate box joints .
Being a newbie I don't know for sure that this is correct , and we all know it can be done with a regular single router table but this just more sense to me .
So are two routers on a table overkill or uncommon , as I'd be willing to build a system like this myself if it has real world advantages (well unless Malcolm has the patent on this )

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 05:20 AM
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I do not think that is overkill for a dedicated box set up.

Very common, I would say.

Just depends on what jig you are using. It would be very handy for the Gifkins jig for example.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 08:23 AM
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Perfect box joints can be made on a very basic table with a simple spacer jig.
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 09:19 AM
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Default box joints jigs

Hi Rick, I use two routers since one has a 3/16" spiral router bit and the other has a 1/2" spiral bit. I use the 1/2" bit to cut a box joint in a light colored wood (generally tiger or spaltic maple) and use the 3/16" bit to cut a joint in a dark wood (cherry, walnut or rosewood). The only adjustment that I have to make is in the height of the bits. If I were making box joints with the same size pins and tails I could have used just one router. Boring! Here are a couple boxes that I made in the past few days. Malcolm / Kentucky USA
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Last edited by kywoodchopper; 05-20-2014 at 09:54 AM.
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 09:25 AM
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About the only way routers can compete with shapers.
I use a pair of 7518's to waste plastic. Let the first one take 90%
of the waste and the finish machine will never be stressed.
And the cutter in the second stage will last 5x longer than 1 doing all of the work. If you can afford: A smart move.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well thank you for the replies guys . This is another eureka moment as I had no idea there was such a concept till I joined . Pat I looked at your link and OMG! Of course jigs would be everything to a router when you think of it and I suspect your the worlds premier guru on the subject .
Malcolm your boxes are without a doubt drop dead gorgeous! I just can't get enough of them. Your killing me here lol . If only you lived close to where I was as I'd pay for a tutorial . (Or beer in trade )

I have to say I really want to kibosh buying a router table and make one after seeing all these ideas . I would like to cheat a little though as I want to buy Incra fence adjusters and there fence for the table . Would that be frowned upon ?
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Malcolm are there any measurements you could share . I would like to know what the ideal spacing of two routers should be if there is such a thing and if you would change anything if you did it all over again.

Ideally would this dual router table benefit by having Incra master lifts . I read here somewhere that lifts were kinda frowned upon and redundant , but I would personally like to incorporate lifts . I have one shiny new PC 75182 now , just need to order a second

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 06:39 AM
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I probably wouldn't change anything. Occasionally I make minor modifications. Several weeks ago I installed the two Keen Dust Routers to capture more dust. I had 4" ports before. I used to have to walk over and turn on the shop vac so I swapped that vac out with a Fein vac that I already had which allows the vac to start when the router starts. I hooked my power strip that's on the front of the router table into the vac that way regardless of the router I start the vac starts. Also originally I had two shop vac hoses coming from each router out the front of the table. Now they go out the back.

It did take a lot of trial and error to get everything just right.

I do not have lifts. I make a batch of boxes that are the same thickness so once I set the bit height I am ready to go. The thickness of the wood range from .30" to .42" - depending on the box that I am making and what looks right. By the way, I used 6-routers to make one of these boxes. They are all mounted in 3-double tables. Nothing on any of them gets changed. I don't change the fence, the bits or anything. Just turn them on and go.

I also have a Incra LS system on a router table, but they don't have templates for what I make. I talked to them & they said they make their products for the general public & that they didn't think I was the general public.

As far as spacing of the routers...I only needed room so that one miter gauge didn't hit the other. I think my table is probably 30" long at the most. I hope this info helped. Here is a photo of the front of the router table. Malcolm / Kentucky USA
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 07:24 AM
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James that what i thought when i red the first post, that is the jig i use and i have 2 router and 2 tables just for that jig the A10 model , works perfect, i bought when Roger own the company yrs ago

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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Wow three double router tables ! I need a bigger garage
Well I'm thinking with my real estate one well designed double router table will have to suffice . The scary part is the trial and error part , as if you knew me and the way I do things it's going to take a minimum of three attempts on a good year .
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