Best material to use for router table top ? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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We'll convince someone eventually Theo that the top doesn't need to be 1 1/2" thick or more to get the job done.
Tell you truth I like the idea of a lot of weight so the table doesn't move
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 08:04 AM
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Tell you truth I like the idea of a lot of weight so the table doesn't move
Anything large enough to move my table using gets routed handheld. The general rule of using power tools is that if it is large it is usually easier to take the tool to the work piece. With small pieces it's easier to take the work to the tool.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Anything large enough to move my table using gets routed handheld. The general rule of using power tools is that if it is large it is usually easier to take the tool to the work piece. With small pieces it's easier to take the work to the tool.
I suspected someone was going to say that lol . When I was looking at manufactured tables I thought they looked way to light, and that was half the reason I felt compelled to build my own .
It was going to be a tank too ,but your talking me out of it
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 12:01 PM
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My next one is going to be a lot heavier but only because I need storage under it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 12:28 PM
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Would acrylic stock be good for a router table top?
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Would acrylic stock be good for a router table top?
I think it would scratch to easy and not be smooth enough in the future
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well I talked to the main man at Windsor Plywood today and he can special order phenolic wood , but its very expensive . I think he quoted me around 84 dollars for a sheet . So after taxes pretty much 100 bucks . Not the end of the world if it proves to work well .

His opinion is to use mdf as the router tables in the back of his shop are mdf . People say mdf will sag , but I believe any material should be reinforced underneath . Well unless it's cast iron of course .

I want something prettier than mdf though . I guess I could take a chance and laminate it's, but liking the phenolic wood idea better. Although I've never see not before

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 09:22 PM
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Rick, $100 is probably 1/2 what we would have to pay for it.......

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Rick, $100 is probably 1/2 what we would have to pay for it.......
Thank you , as I guess it's in the ball park then . Things are very expensive in Canada and more so in the province of BC .

I'm still elated that the GI table is no longer an issue . As I've mentioned previously real estate isn't fantastic in my garage , so if I can make a router table , work station ,and out feed table for my saw all in one I'll be laughing .
I'm still very hooked on the idea of lowering and raising the table for different applications . Just have to get a game plan now
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 10:35 PM
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What is everyone's thought on using HDPE plastic(think cutting boards) for a router top? I have a sheet of 3/4 and 1/2". Easy to machine but would it gouge to easy? Any other concerns? This would be built on the side of my table saw to save space.
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