Router plate installation . How close is close enough - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router plate installation . How close is close enough

Guys I played around doing test hole after test hole . By going to a 3/8" straight bit and a 27mm guide bushing I got as close as I can theoretically get (well for a noob like me )

It is not rabbited here as this is a test hole . Plus I need a new template as I have an issue on the side .
My question is , I have it in but there is a tiny bit of movement in the plate . I can just get a finger nail in the excess room . Sorry I don't have feeler gauges yet .

The Incra plate does have a locking cam , so maybe it will be ok ?
For owners with an incra table , is there any movement whatsoever when you drop your plate or router lift in , or is it as snug as a bug ?
Is between 1/128" and 1/64" acceptable , or should it be rock solid which I suspect is the right answer .

Here's a few pics of the test hole



I wasn't holding it flush here so it may look deceiving as it's inside a bit

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 06-16-2014 at 08:42 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:12 PM
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My router plate, and table, are both homemade. I have no movement at alll - my plate is not square, rather a sort of odd shape, which does tend to lock it in place. But if it did move, I would just place a small shim, or two, in the crack, and not worry about it.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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My router plate, and table, are both homemade. I have no movement at alll - my plate is not square, rather a sort of odd shape, which does tend to lock it in place. But if it did move, I would just place a small shim, or two, in the crack, and not worry about it.
I was actually thinking shim to , but don't you typically remove the plate to change bits ?
I've never used a router plate before , just attached the bottom of the base to my TS extension

I guess I could always try bondo in the gap as long as I can get the plate out again . I have no idea how to make it any better other than retrofitting Incra's top into my TS extension

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 06-16-2014 at 06:22 PM.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I think I got it . I'm going to wrap a few layers of tape around my 27mm guide bushing that's attached to the routers plate . This will force the router out a tiny bit creating a smaller hole

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I got it figured out . I went around the bushing twice with that foil tape you use for ductwork changing the size of the hole .
Not very scientific but it worked . In theory the bushing wouldn't be a perfect circle after adding the tape but it seemed ok


The end result , with just that tiny change in bushing size the plate fit in perfectly . It was so snug I had to apply a bit of pressure on it to get it in . As I mentioned , disregard the small errors around the perimeter as I have to take my time and make a better jig , but at least I know I can do it now !

The finished product after the new jig is done should be within a Rickameter . That's one biz-zillionth of a meter for those who don't know what a Rickameter is




Hot dang I like routers ! (or when a plan comes together)

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan1 View Post
I was actually thinking shim to , but don't you typically remove the plate to change bits ?
I do, yes, I prefer that to a router lift, of any type. But others prefer router lifts. I can pull my plate off, and pop it back in place in just seconds, not counting the time to change bits. However, I have several routers, and have each mounted to a plate, each with a different bit, so very little time to change bits.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 03:16 AM
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One of the advantages of the MUSCLECHUCK is that it gives about an extra 1/2" of height which in most cases means that the router doesn't need to be removed for bit change, also just a half turn of a ball ended 4mm Allen key fully tightens/loosens the bit.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 07:21 AM
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If you use a 30mm bush with 18mm bit to create the template, then the same bush with a 6mm bit for the actual hole rebate it would be perfect. The triple offset moves the outside of the cut to the inside edge of the final cut for the plate.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 08:42 AM
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Then again, it could be done like this illuminated router base with a router circle jig.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post
If you use a 30mm bush with 18mm bit to create the template, then the same bush with a 6mm bit for the actual hole rebate it would be perfect. The triple offset moves the outside of the cut to the inside edge of the final cut for the plate.
This is the math I needed !
Issue though . I only have a 24mm , 27mm and 40mm bushing guides. There's one more available but out of stock . Obviously I could get the bit

Looks like I better buy the adaptor and some other brand of guides as I'm not really all that hot and bothered about my tape idea although it worked

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 06-17-2014 at 09:24 AM.
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