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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Default Routing tear out

Gentlemen I'm sure this is a novice question with a simple solution but I am relatively new to woodworking. I am making a custom shoe rack that involves routing of both sides of several 5-foot long oak boards. The routing went just fine on the narrower boards of 2 1/2 inch widths but on the 3 1/2 inch boards I keep getting tear out on the last inch to inch and a half. I made a sturdy backer board as I am getting to the end and used a ball bearing third hand support to hold the piece of the board that extends beyond the table. I am still getting tear out. I know the easy way would be to precut all my lengths two inches longer than I need just so I can cut those troublesome last inch or so. However that seems like cheating. I sure would like to do it right. Is handheld routing these cuts a better approach. Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:37 PM
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You are probably running against the grain,can you flip the board 180* and cut with the grain
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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I was going against the grain on the first board but the next two occurred with the grain. I did not get as much tear out but continued to occur. Maybe I am not using the backer board properly. I am pushing forward but emphasizing the pressure to keeping the project board and the backer board edges square. Thanks for your help.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 10:02 AM
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Sometimes the grain starts to run in a different direction as you go along, so I find it necessary to go to the end and pulling it being very careful. Another trick is to clamp a thin peice over it as a helper when you route to prevent tear out.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guile1 View Post
Gentlemen I'm sure this is a novice question with a simple solution but I am relatively new to woodworking. I am making a custom shoe rack that involves routing of both sides of several 5-foot long oak boards. The routing went just fine on the narrower boards of 2 1/2 inch widths but on the 3 1/2 inch boards I keep getting tear out on the last inch to inch and a half. I made a sturdy backer board as I am getting to the end and used a ball bearing third hand support to hold the piece of the board that extends beyond the table. I am still getting tear out. I know the easy way would be to precut all my lengths two inches longer than I need just so I can cut those troublesome last inch or so. However that seems like cheating. I sure would like to do it right. Is handheld routing these cuts a better approach. Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks.
what kind of bit ? and what kind of profile ? i route on my table all the time and i will not get tare out , are you going full speed on the bit, what size of bit , if small diamater than full speed , and a good sharp bit , oak could tare out but i hardly get tare out , the only time that happen's is when you go across grain or end than when you go length wise that clean's that up , i think you are doing a over kill but you should be able to do that with out all the stuff you are doing ?? and it isn't still working right , all bit's have a speed that they need to run at, and need's to be sharp good luck

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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I am using a Freud 1 inch convex bit that is brand new on 3/4 inch board. My router is a variable speed on the middle 3 setting and and the fence is set so that maybe an 1/8 inch of the bit is showing, just enough to soften the edges. Thanks for your help.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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I am trying to visualize how to clamp the thin piece of wood and currently having a senior moment. Can you break it down for me. Thanks.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Are you talking about using a toggle clamp to hold down the thin strip of wood over the stock and backer board. If so should the thin wood be right with the stock's edge at the bit? I got past my senior moment and does the above coincide with your idea. Thanks
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 03:26 PM
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It doesn't seem as though you are making a heavy duty cut, but you might try multiple passes, increasing the depth each time, to see if that works. Steve in California
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 04:16 PM
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Are you talking bullnose bit? Are you getting chip out or snipe? Different solutions need for each of those problems. Picture of the bit and the board with the problem may help.

I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed.

I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.

Last edited by Dmeadows; 07-19-2014 at 04:17 PM. Reason: SP
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