Question about above or below table height adjustment and more - Router Forums
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Default Question about above or below table height adjustment and more

I am building my own router table. Progress has been very slow due to lack of time.
So far I have a 24" x 36" MDF top screwed to a poplar box frame.
I am planning to build this stand as it will work with the poplar frame and is low cost:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...outertable.pdf

For the top I was going to use Formica but couldn't find a scrap and don't want to mess with contact cement. So I am going to use some 1/4" thick white board I got at home depot and screw it to the MDF using through holes and machine screws so I can replace when needed, hopefully never.

I have a PC690 router and was looking at getting a Bosch 1617 for the above table adjustment. But now I am not sure I want to spend the extra or so $200 on it. I will be using an Incra Magnalock plate which fit either router.

Is it that hard to adjust the PC690 under the table? I am a part time hobbyist woodworker and not cranking out a lot of projects. I work on them slowly over time. If it takes a few more minutes to adjust the height I don't care. If I won't get the precision I need then that would concern me.

Also I am unsure where to locate the router plate. It seems most tables have them in the middle. This would give me 12" from the router bit to the front edge of the table. Is this enough to do kitchen cabinet and furniture work? I realize if I locate it further back it will be harder to do the under table router adjustment and at some point there won't enough room for the fence. I am planning to use a Woodpecker Super Fence possibly with the micro adjuster. I do have some back issues so reaching under the table to adjust the router could be problematic.

Thanks
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 11:57 PM
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Joel
I preferr the router in the back 1/3 of the table leaving more room to the front.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:22 AM
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Joel I had my PC690 fastened under my table saws extension without a plate and I never found it to be much of an issue changing it's height at all .
I don't know if I'd even bother with another layer attached to the mdf top . Each to his own of course

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:36 AM
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Joel , I will get a picture and measurement off my Incra table tomorrow for you . It may be apples to oranges as my tables 27" wide and 43" deep, but it may give you an idea where to start

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-18-2014 at 12:48 AM.
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Joel I had my PC690 fastened under my table saws extension without a plate and I never found it to be much of an issue changing it's height at all .
I don't know if I'd even bother with another layer attached to the mdf top . Each to his own of course
I have heard MDF gets damaged easily if you spill water or liquids on it.
Also the white board makes it easier to see what you are doing and has smother surface. I have heard of people putting various finishes on MDF like danish or tung oil but would rather not do that. I am groping my way through this and will probably run into some problems along the way. Thanks for all who responded.
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semipro View Post
Joel
I preferr the router in the back 1/3 of the table leaving more room to the front.
and to the left 1/3rd...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 09:28 AM
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I have heard MDF gets damaged easily if you spill water or liquids on it.
.
Well don't drink beer while your routing , especially whiskey j/k

I agree white may be beneficial although my Incra router plate is gold. You could also use a piece of melamine and build a torsion box underneath . I'm just concerned about layers and the router plate fit is all

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-18-2014 at 09:34 AM.
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Well don't drink beer while your routing , especially whiskey j/k

I agree white may be beneficial although my Incra router plate is gold. You could also use a piece of melamine and build a torsion box underneath . I'm just concerned about layers and the router plate fit is all
I drink red wine, one glass won't hurt.
I agree with your concern. When I just lay the white board on top it seems pretty flat.
I plane to use a grid of screws on 6" centers to hold it down. and maybe some more around the edge of the plate. If it doesn't work I can always take it off. I do have a box a made from poplar to support the MDF. Here is a picture of what I have so far:

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Last edited by jnbrown; 08-18-2014 at 10:43 AM.
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 11:07 AM
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If you might want to make kitchen cupboard doors someday then a 690 sized router might be a little small. The cheapest way to go is to not have to replace your setup later because it is inadequate for what you need to do at the time. My personal opinion would be to get a plunge router with at least 2 1/2 hp. The plunge doesn't need a lift and many are now adjustable from above the table. I only held mine down in the table with gravity so I could lift it out in seconds and use it as a plunge if I needed. The insert plate acts like an offset base giving the router more stability. Popping thwe router out of the table also makes bit changes really easy.

I also think that the router should be located around the 1/3- 2/3 location but I like to be able to work from both sides of my table. If I'm doing wide pieces I like to use that side and if I'm working on narrow pieces I like to stand on the short side as that makes it close and easier on my back. That eliminates Stick's suggestion of 1/3 to one side if you go my way unless you make 2 different fences.

The plunge router and offset table offered me the greatest amount of versatility from my equipment.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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