Router lift / Something you have never seen - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-05-2014, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Are you using 8020 aluminium on your sliding table? Are you using any type of linear bearings or just having it slide on the dadoes cut into the work pieces?

Nice looking setup.
Good eye. It is 8020. I don't know why it's not more popular than the blue stuff. Maybe guys don't know they can get about any of the profiles on eBay dirt cheap.

There are 5 bearing surfaces the lift opperates on. Each are 12" long. It's more than a simple dado. That's why it works so well. If you PM me I can get you all the answers.

Also if you think about how the lift moves. Only about 1 to 2 inches either way. It also moves really slow so it doesn't have any measureable ware over the life of its use. These are reasons this lift works well and there really isn't any need for expensive linear bearings. A fast simple adjustment can be made if the lift were to become less than perfect.

Thanks

Al
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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-05-2014, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Default New YouTube

I've put together another short video to answer some questions I've been asked.
Router Lift 4 Al B Thayer - YouTube

Thanks Al
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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 06:47 AM
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Nice Job Al!!!

Learning is an exciting adventure
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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 10:35 AM
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I've put together another short video to answer some questions I've been asked.
Router Lift 4 Al B Thayer - YouTube

Thanks Al
The new video does answer some of the questions people have been asking.

Changing from horizontal to vertical use is easy, just changing the router from one clamp to the other and tightening the clamp. Remember you will make the mounting clamps to fit your router so any router can be used and you can make mounts to fit several routers if you like.

Remember Al is showing the basic parts of the lift with the most cost saving hardware in use. You can change from a bolt and nut to a bolt and ratcheting handle on the router mount for quicker change over of the router. You can use small finger knobs instead of just nuts on the stops, this is up to you to modify the plan to fit your needs but remember the plans are showing you the cheapest method of construction. You might just want to have a dedicated wrench to use with the basic hardware so it will always be handy and save the cost of those expensive knobs. If you want to use knobs then check out the posts here on the forms for knobs that you can make yourself to save money instead of buying them.

Mike
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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 10:46 AM
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Al my friend, that is a nice-looking contraption! Your use of aluminum extrusions and high quality fasteners impresses me. Obviously, your accuracy in building this was very high. Keep-up the good work and please let me know if I can help you with anything such as drawings (2d or 3d) - done at no charge for my friends. I can send these to you as .pdf or .stl format for your use.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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The new video does answer some of the questions people have been asking.

Changing from horizontal to vertical use is easy, just changing the router from one clamp to the other and tightening the clamp. Remember you will make the mounting clamps to fit your router so any router can be used and you can make mounts to fit several routers if you like.

Remember Al is showing the basic parts of the lift with the most cost saving hardware in use. You can change from a bolt and nut to a bolt and ratcheting handle on the router mount for quicker change over of the router. You can use small finger knobs instead of just nuts on the stops, this is up to you to modify the plan to fit your needs but remember the plans are showing you the cheapest method of construction. You might just want to have a dedicated wrench to use with the basic hardware so it will always be handy and save the cost of those expensive knobs. If you want to use knobs then check out the posts here on the forms for knobs that you can make yourself to save money instead of buying them.
It has its share of Hillman knobs on it and they do add up quickly. I like the speedy ratchet wrench and used the same size for all. So a dedicated wrench for $12 might actually be cheaper.

Good idea on making them.

Al
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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Al my friend, that is a nice-looking contraption! Your use of aluminum extrusions and high quality fasteners impresses me. Obviously, your accuracy in building this was very high. Keep-up the good work and please let me know if I can help you with anything such as drawings (2d or 3d) - done at no charge for my friends. I can send these to you as .pdf or .stl format for your use.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
Wow. Thanks so much for the kind words and offer.

Ive used 8020 on 6 different fixtures and machines. This is the first time using this profile. If one buys it on ebay it costs less than the blue t stop. It really has some heft to it too. 8020 has quite a few inserts that fit the slot for different applications. Some for sliding bearing and some for locking a stop.

This one is for mounting a swinging door. I used it to make this flip stop on my cut off saw.
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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Nice Job Al!!!
(bowing) thank you.
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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 01:23 AM
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A link to your plans on ebay Please
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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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When I posted this lift here. I was hoping to get more feed back on it. There are many guys on this forum with great advice and knowledge.

Any feed back would be great. Good or bad. What don't you like about the lift? What should I change?

Thanks

Al

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