I built a router table, and managed to sink a 3/16" piece of clear acrylic flush to the 3/4" good grade plywood. It's a 2x4' piece and I screwed it to an old bench that was in this fixer upper when I bought it. I saw an educational TV program on router usage and noted that the instructor was using his plunge base mounted on an phenolic plate to do his table routes. I wondered why was he using the plunge base and not the fixed base. I am still wondering because I mounted my Skil 1825 on the plunge base and tried to cut a dado (slot) 1/4" deep in a piece of soft 3/4" pine about 2 feet long, and the depts was half of that when I got through. Even though I measured it over and over I still got a difference in the cut.

Something changes between the time I have the router on the table top adjusting (which is truly awkward and imprecise to me) and the time I put it back in the table and setup my home made fence and take a cut.

There seems to be no way to fine tune the depth of cut, as the adjustment knob only goes a short distance before binding up...I don't get it at all...I am totally lost as to how to work with this Skil router...

Any ideas on where I can get some instructions? The skil people don't offer much in the way of user information...thanks

Hi Popeye

They will both work but it's best to use the standard base for the router table in that way you can just pop in the motor in the plunge base, plus you don't need to remove the springs....but the deepth of cut should not change once you set it..

http://www.amazon.com/Skil-1825-2-In.../dp/B0000C6DY0

User Manual below
http://www.amazon.com/Skil-1825-2-In.../dp/B0000C6DY0

Attached Files

File Type: pdf

skill 1825 MANUAL000043263.pdf (893.1 KB, 135 views)