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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router Table Build Questions

I am in the mood to build a router table one again. This will be my 3rd one. This time I have found out that I want it wider. I also am thinking about adding a flip top and mounting the router to the table rather than using an insert. Has anyone else mounted your router directly to the table? My last table I used a 2 3/4" hole and this worked for basically every bit, including a 2 1/2" raised panel bit. This way I don't need a hole insert.

Also last table I went all out and covered the MDF top with laminate, trimmed out in oak, etc. This seems didn't reeeeaaallly seem necessary. Has anyone else just used bare mdf top with a coating like wax or poly?

Thanks,

Deck
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 03:40 PM
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Hi Deck

" used bare mdf top with a coating like wax "
Yes, I have one like that and it works great, a coat or two of Johnson Paste Wax and if it gets a bit dull just a quick new coat and it's ready to go back to work...and it's as slick as a baby's bottom...

The flip down sounds great but I would suggest using a plate insert, when you drop it down just pop out the router and put it away or just use it for plunge router jobs..

It can be the 7" sq. one or the 11" sq. one from Oak Park that I do recommend , the 7" one works great for many of the hand type router jobs you will do...plus you can use the brass guides that do come in Handy for the router table and the plunge jobs...

==========

Quote:
Originally Posted by deck99
I am in the mood to build a router table one again. This will be my 3rd one. This time I have found out that I want it wider. I also am thinking about adding a flip top and mounting the router to the table rather than using an insert. Has anyone else mounted your router directly to the table? My last table I used a 2 3/4" hole and this worked for basically every bit, including a 2 1/2" raised panel bit. This way I don't need a hole insert.

Also last table I went all out and covered the MDF top with laminate, trimmed out in oak, etc. This seems didn't reeeeaaallly seem necessary. Has anyone else just used bare mdf top with a coating like wax or poly?

Thanks,

Deck



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 05:34 PM
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Router great Pat Warner's table design is of MDF and he just coated it with poly. It works well and seals it. Seal it well around the edges.

Corey

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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bobj3,
The first two tables I built I had an insert. I thought It would be nice to just mount my Hitachi to the table and not have to mess with cutting an insert in. My Hitachi is strictly to be used in my table. Why do you say I should have an insert?

thank you,
Deck
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 07:50 PM
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I think it definitely makes it easier to work on if you need to but it doesn't have to have an insert. In fact, Pat Warners doesn't that is made out of mdf. Neither does box makers Roger Gifkins set up.

Corey

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Last edited by challagan; 09-16-2007 at 08:23 PM.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 09:14 PM
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Hi Deck

Well let start with the top, The norm is 2ea. 3/4" thick MDF parts to make a good router table top glued up as one, you can use just one or some plywood but it should be 3/4" min...now if you bolt up your Hitachi to the board you just lost 3/4" of the router moving up that's not a big deal most of the time unless you use lets say a 1/4" shank bits from time to time, the 1/4" router bits are always a bit shorter the 1/2" shank ones.

Now if you make up the top and it comes out at 1 1/2" thick...I'm sure can see what I'm saying, but you may say well about if I route out a pocket out to set the router base in that's 1/4" to 3/8" thick, if you use plywood or MDF the wood will not hold the router and it time it will crack the board and you did all the work for not.

Now if you use a plate insert you will only lose 1/4" to 3/8" and the plate just sits on and small lip and it can hold up the 3 1/4HP router..



=============
Quote:
Originally Posted by deck99
bobj3,
The first two tables I built I had an insert. I thought It would be nice to just mount my Hitachi to the table and not have to mess with cutting an insert in. My Hitachi is strictly to be used in my table. Why do you say I should have an insert?

thank you,
Deck



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2007, 11:58 PM
 
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Default just built a MDF table

This is how I built my table after spending a couple of months tinkering with different ideas. I glued up a 3/4" sheet of MDF to a 1/4" sheet of MDF. I then topped the 1/4" with 1/4" hardboard. I cut out a 7" diameter hole in the 3/4" and drilled mounting holes through the other 2 layers. My Hitachi M12VC is bolted to the 1/4" MDF and 1/4" (slightly thinner than 1/4") hardboard. I then trimmed the edges with 3/4" SYP to leave no exposed edges. My table is 24" X 36" with the router mounted centered left to right and 10" from the back. I used a 1-1/2 Forstner bit for the hole then enlarged it with a 1/2" roundover by coming straight up. Used it yesterday for the first time and it worked beautifully. Total cost of materials $22.00. All from Home Depot. I'm a very happy camper!
I have been reading this site for a couple of months and will make my introduction post soon.

Tony
I will post some pics of it soon

Last edited by cptblackeye; 09-18-2007 at 12:31 AM.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 12:15 AM
 
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Default Pictures of new table

Here they are. I hope this helps. I used a 1/2" roundover, 45 lock miter, and a 1" flush trim in it with no bit height issues (all bits are 1/2" shank).
I copied the fence from this forum. I mount the table on a workbench from Harbor Freight for $9.99 and tighen the adjusters and it holds it securely.
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Last edited by cptblackeye; 09-18-2007 at 12:36 AM.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2007, 12:54 AM
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There are several very good reasons to use a mounting plate. #1 is this is the fastest way to change bits and make height adjustments. #2 is you know the plate will support the router and not give way under a load. #3 is the ability to use guide bushings. #4 would be the ability to reduce the opening size to zero or minimal clearance. While you could accomplish this with an auxiliary table top you would lose a great deal of depth adjustment.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-19-2007, 05:59 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deck99
I also am thinking about adding a flip top and mounting the router to the table rather than using an insert. Has anyone else mounted your router directly to the table?
...
Also last table I went all out and covered the MDF top with laminate, trimmed out in oak, etc. This seems didn't reeeeaaallly seem necessary. Has anyone else just used bare mdf top with a coating like wax or poly?
Two more reasons for using an insert plate:

1) use of a "lift" that lets me set the height from above the table, and precisely. This is a mechanism that's attached to the plate. I suppose you could attach it directly to the table instead, but it already comes with the plate.

2) the plate is more precise than the bulk of the table. It is aluminum or heavy-duty stiff phenolic laminate, is machined flat using tools you don't have yourself, is stiffer than the rest of the table, and provides the reference for attaching the router so it is perpendicular to the plate. The rest of the table can be plywood or whatever.

On the other hand, I had thought about a table that has a tilt top, for other purposes. One idea for my next worktable (not a router table) would have a tiltable top.

—John
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