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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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I am starting a cabinet door project. I am working with a table mounted bosch router and a cove and bead bit w/ bearing. Everytime I try to carefully start a 4"x20" board against the bit, it violently grabs and trys to discard the board. I was under the impression that if a bit had a bearing that i did not have to have a fence? Am I wrong here? It is very easy for me to line up a fence, so that the board was being held in place. Am I supposed to be raising the bit a litlle at a time so that it doesn't have so much to take off at a time? The router has plenty of power, and the bit is new. Any ideas? thanx,Marc
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 07:32 PM
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Hi Marc -
With large bits, the work must be against something stationary first (index pin, fence, etc.), before the bit hits the wood. The steadies the work as it is slowly fed into the spinning bit. On that kind of cut, I find the fence works better. Be sure ti back up the cross-grain cuts with a piece of scrap to prevent tear-out. Good luck and best wishes.
Roger
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 09:33 PM
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As Roger says, you need to use a starting pin if you are not using a fence. This is a very common procedure on the router table but you can use a fence as well, just isolate the bearing so that the bearing doesn't touch the work piece.

Corey

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 09:49 PM
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Default a little advice please

marcrunner,
You definitely need something to help control the feed going into a bit of this type. There is no way you can physically stop the wood from being yanked away from your hand without a fence. It is very dangerous to try.

Attached is a link to the Oak-Park catalogue page that contains their raised panel system. There is a video there. I recently purchased mine and I couldn't imagine making raised panels.



Oak-Park raised panel set up

Jack

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it, give it to me!"
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 10:04 PM
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I would recommend a trip to the library to pick up The New Router Handbook or Woodworking with the router. They have a bunch of safety and operational hints for those new to the router.

Work safely, it's no fun getting hurt

Doug
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 10:28 PM
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Marc., in addition to all the previous correct advice, make sure you are feeding from right to left and take small cuts even with a big router and 1/2" shank cutters.

Harry



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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 10:52 PM
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Sorry, just noticed that you are making cope and bead rail and stiles. Definitely want to use a fence in this operation.

Corey

My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver
http://iowacarver.tripod.com/
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanx everyone. i am not sure I know how to isolate the bearing as challagan stated. What exactly does this mean?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 07:17 AM
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Hi Marc to isolate the bearing you must move the fence forward to the point where the
bearing is untouched when you slide a stick/or straight edge from one side of the fence accross the bearing to the other side of the fence. That insures that the bearing is not in play while the cut is being made. You can only advance the material from right to left when making the cut. If the material is narrow, it must be backed up with a push block, while making the cut. A bit with a bearing should be used when you are working with out a router table, or with a safty starter pin placed in the table near the bit. Hopp this helps.. Woodnut65
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 09:36 AM
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Default a little advice please

Marc,
Here is another site with some info that might help.

Raised panel how-to

Jack

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it, give it to me!"
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