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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-23-2007, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Garage Door Joinery

The bottom rail on my wooden 4-panel garage door needs to be replaced. It is worn badly and is incorrectly installed so that water seeps down the outside, under the bottom, and inside. Image #1 shows the garage door bottom rail and #2 shows the rail-stile joint that I need to produce.

It appears to me that the joinery is similar to a round-over rail and stile door router bit set. However, the bottom door rail and the stiles are 1-1/8" thick so I need to figure out how to make the tenon thicker and longer.

I saw a router bit on infinity's website, called an "Extended Tenon Cutter", but it is only available in ogee and shaker styles. This makes a 7/16" thick tenon as long as you want it to be.

My thought is that with 1-1/8" stock, I would probably want the tenon to be 1/2" thick and at least 1-1/2" long.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could accomplish this? I suppose if all else failed, I could route a mortise and tenon and then glue on some quarter-round molding but that really wouldn't do anything for the rail and stile joints.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

JimC
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 07:02 PM
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A bull nose or round over should give you the best results for a rounded tenon. If that is what you're trying to do.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 07:44 PM
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Hi Jim

They make router bit sets just for this type of job..

They are not cheap but if you take the door apart I'm almost sure you will see this type of joint ..see below....

You can dig a bit on the Net and find the set a bit cheaper..the KATANA brand is the higher end of MLCS router bits...If I recall the last time a looked for this set I found it for 75.00 dollars...Price Cutters I think...

but the key to keep the water out of this type of joint is to paint it to seal the joint and make it water tight..you can also use some silcone around the joint but not inside the joint...

KATANA 2 Piece Matched Rail and Stile Set For Entry Doors

http://www.amazon.com/KATANA-Piece-M...046398&sr=1-45

OR

From eBay ,at about 50.oo bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ENTRY-...QQcmdZViewItem



----------






Quote:
Originally Posted by jimcrockett
The bottom rail on my wooden 4-panel garage door needs to be replaced. It is worn badly and is incorrectly installed so that water seeps down the outside, under the bottom, and inside. Image #1 shows the garage door bottom rail and #2 shows the rail-stile joint that I need to produce.

It appears to me that the joinery is similar to a round-over rail and stile door router bit set. However, the bottom door rail and the stiles are 1-1/8" thick so I need to figure out how to make the tenon thicker and longer.

I saw a router bit on infinity's website, called an "Extended Tenon Cutter", but it is only available in ogee and shaker styles. This makes a 7/16" thick tenon as long as you want it to be.

My thought is that with 1-1/8" stock, I would probably want the tenon to be 1/2" thick and at least 1-1/2" long.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could accomplish this? I suppose if all else failed, I could route a mortise and tenon and then glue on some quarter-round molding but that really wouldn't do anything for the rail and stile joints.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

JimC


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Last edited by bobj3; 11-03-2007 at 10:35 AM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 08:04 PM
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Seems to me for the price of the Katana bit set you could almost buy a new door.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 08:59 PM
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Hi george

Almost, one of the painted Steel/Alum. ones that don't rust

I replace my wooden one on my garage with one of the insulated white steel ones after I checked on the price of a wooden one.. the wood ones do sag in time. if I recall it was $345.oo bucks installed...and they took the old one with them...

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Seems to me for the price of the Katana bit set you could almost buy a new door.



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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-03-2007, 12:30 AM
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I recently replaced one of my garage doors and installed it myself for less than $200. It's really a fairly simple job. One person can do it but it's a lot easier with two.

George
Fort Worth, Texas
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-03-2007, 12:49 AM
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Hi george

You'er right they are easy to install ,the one I had replace was a 8' x 16' ,,along time ago I was a garage door installer for about 2 years, and we/I aways did it by myself the only thing I didn't care for to much I always got stuck with the new homes with all the drywall stacked up in the garage , it woiuld take me more time to move the drywall then it took to hang the door, and I didn't care for was winding up the spring over the door ,they can be a bit scarey sometimes and I always got stuck with that type...unlike the easy ones with cable and springs on the rails... I did most of them in the dark with just a flash light, it was a 2nd job for me after the normal one ...but good money...



-----------------



---


Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
I recently replaced one of my garage doors and installed it myself for less than $200. It's really a fairly simple job. One person can do it but it's a lot easier with two.



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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 02:29 PM
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In the process of making 2. I used roundover bit and mitered the joints. (Time consuming) Used tendon jig to make tendons Used dado to cut grove in the rails. And will use rabbet bit for the panels and glass.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 09:56 PM
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Welcome to the forums Paul.




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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 09:58 PM
 
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I have the same type of profile on my doors. First run the stock over a dado blade to make the groove. Then you can do the round over sides. Or if you really like spending money, buy the set and you will have it for doors if you ever need to make some. Your door is much newer then mine. Mine are from the ?, well not sure. Still have the square nuts.
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