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I know....another "which one" thread...

3K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  MT Stringer 
#1 ·
Hi,

New to the site. Only woodworking skills are bending nails with hammers :cray: (ok, not totally true)

I'm interested in getting a router table/router setup. Do I want a particle board type deck, do I want a wood deck, do I want a cast iron deck...

I don't know. I imagine each has its own pros & cons.

Setup but first, let's state that I'll worry about cost later (If I don't want to spend for something I might be able to get a less expensive version)

1. Looking for a router table
2. I think I prefer a full standing table verses a more portable table top (unless the table tops are made just as nice)
3. I'm guessing that I want a cast iron top unless there are compelling reasons to avoid cast iron (I realize it's going to be heavy)
4. Projects? Really don't know.... maybe some sliding trays (think 20x24 with sliders on it, inserted into a large cabinet so you can pull out say, a coffee maker) I want to make some small dovetailed boxes, about 4x6 inches.

I don't know what all I can do....this is sort of a 'want' so I can doodle around and try some things.

I don't want anything 220 volt as I'm not setup for it.

What features are more 'must haves' verses wants?
What router to go with it? (I don't currently have router, could consider two of them, one dedicated to table, one for freehand)

I've done some searching. I'm guessing I've not yet figured out what to put into search engine to find some ideas.

I read about a 'MLCS' table and dedicated motor.... is something like that reasonable for what I've stated so far? Are there more versatile brands? Better brands?

Thanks for any thoughts.
 
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#2 ·
Pretty wide range of possibilities.

Cast iron is pretty good because the weight makes it a lot more stable though most router tables are pretty stable anyway. Cost is going to be a factor, of course.

On router selection, first I've never heard of a US 220VAC router so that's not an issue.

Router selection depends on whether you want to use a lift or not. Some plunge routers have the ability to be adjusted from the bottom (also called above table adjust) so you don't need a lift. Lifts have their advantages though. I have a Mast-R-Lift that makes above table bit changes really easy and locks from the table top. If you go the plunger route you can save money. Personally, I really like my lift - it's smooth, accurate and is rock solid. Don't get a router that requires you to go under the table to adjust the height. You'll wind up regretting your decision. I would not get one router to use both in a table and hand held. You'll wind up regretting that decision, too.

As to power. I'd recommend at least a 2.25 HP router. I prefer a larger router (PC7518, 3.25 HP) to swing bigger bits and power through harder woods. For most work though, the mid-sized routers will work just fine. Again, you save money with the mid size router.

I'd look at the table as having 2 parts: the top and the base/cart. Start with the top you want. Your decisions above will drive the top selection. The base is more about storage and mobility (I always put wheels on all my big tools).

Finally, think about dust collection. This is super important because a router can spew amazing amounts of chips and dust.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Welcome to the forum . Good name btw .

I bought an Incra top and lift and am going to build from there down to my specs . I looked at all the posts regarding "post pictures of your router table " thread , and that's where I got my ideas .
I'd be tempted to build from scratch if you have the time and tools .

I'm a little concerned about cast iron tables as there was a member here that had many issues before he got everything in spec . Myself I'd go with one inch MDF with Formica on top and a torsion box underneith so it can't warp . In humid climates they say the mdf swells up , but I've never seen MDF swell up here after decades and we've been getting a lot of rain . Maybe if you lay it on its side in a puddle

http://www.incra.com
Here's the link to Incra . This may give you some ideas
 
#4 ·
Welcome to the forum Richard. I agree with what Rick said. My last table top was a piece of 5/8" melamine coated particle board on a torsion box frame and it was still dead flat after 4 yrs when I gave it to my son in law, although some of the melamine had starting wearing off. I don't recommend laminating two sheets together. Not only is not necessary, I've seen so many posts about war page from people who have that I'm starting to think that it's the laminating that causes it. I also don't think you need high pressure laminate on both sides of the top. Kitchen and bathroom countertops are laminated on one side of 5/8" particle board and they never warp even though they are in the two most humid rooms in your house.

A cast iron top should last forever but will be heavy and costly.

An Mdf top covered with laminate could also last the rest of your life and is relatively inexpensive. If you decide it doesn't fill all your needs it won't ruin your day (or week or month) if you replace it.

There is a ton of old posts which you can search through if you type Router table into our Community Search.
 
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#5 ·
Regarding the porter cable PC7518, looks like it's a fixed unit.

I (think) I like the idea of a plunge router or perhaps one with two bases. The price of the 7518 doesn't make me shy away so with that established, should I look for a plunge router and if so, stay with PC?

I've read about the tables that allow you to adjust/change bits from the top. I REALLY prefer that situation as I once borrowed a table.... it was a royal pain in the hiney to adjust and swap bits. I would call this a must have feature.

As for dust....not sure that I care about that at all. (perhaps I should?) I don't have a shop so any routing will be done outdoors on the gravel driveway where the wind can carry it away or, next time I box-blade the driveway, it will mix it in with the gravel.

So, yes, this means I'll be carrying the table in/out of the garage every time I use it.

This is kind of why I like a full sized table. My working area in the garage won't be outside. I could do things while setting the table on the ground (a benchtop). This is what I did last time and currently do with the table saw we have.

It works but, I do prefer the idea of staying vertical while actually working and trying to focus on something instead of being hunched over.
 
#12 ·
I've had a PC 7518 in my router table for about 10 years and I was happy with it until the speed control went out (didn't affect highest speed). I bought a Triton TRA0001, and it instantly became my new favorite for the table. I didn't consider working below the table to change bits to be a real chore until I experienced above-the-table bit changes. And the speed control on the Triton is way better than the PC ever was. Don't fool yourself into thinking this will be your last router purchase. Both of these are too big and unwieldy to be pleasant for hand-held use. Plus, you'll instantly tire of removing it from the table and you'll get a smaller router for hand-held use.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Richard I have an Incra lift with a PC7518 for a router table and a separate plunge router , well a few plunge routers as ones mounted on a circle cutter .
If your going to get involved in wood working and can afford it I'd have both at some point .
Seems everyone is partial to the 1617 Bosch . I may buy one just to find out what I'm missing lol .
I went the really expensive way and bought a Festool Plunge router . I think it was worth the extra cost as I'm liking the dust extraction a lot . I do believe there's a piece you can buy for the Bosch to collect dust also .
Dust is unhealthy and collects fast with routers , so I'd work dust extraction into your budget
 
#9 ·
I have a Bosch RA1181 table and a Bosch 1617 router. It comes with the crank up to raise and lower the cutters with out having to get down under it. Make bit changes easier. I mounted mine on a cart with wheels. I have mine plugged into a multi strip so that when I turn it on, my shop vac, and a light strip come on at the same time.
David
 
#10 ·
There is nothing special about a router table so don't get caught up with all the sales hype. Build your own to what ever size you think you will need, Mine is 2' x 4' and for me it works just fine. For doing longer wood you need the support that a longer table gives . If you think you may want to go with an Incra jig then cut the hole for the router plate closer to the left side and closer to the front. You can go to the Incra site and get there dimensions. In reality a simple split fence 5" high with a dust port in the back will serve you well. Buy 4 feather boards (don't try to make them) and mount two to the fence to hold things down and two to the table to keep things tight to the fence. Add a lift, a Router Raizer would be my recommendation but check first to make sure it would fit the router you choose. Search this site there are a lot of pictures posted. If you choose to by one don't go with cast iron and don't spend hundreds for a piece of MDF that is made to a size that may or may not fit your needs.
 
#11 ·
When you make your own table and case and you build the table to be removed, it can be a portable and a shop tool. Pretty much all the new factory RTs and stand set ups I see on the net don't appear to lend themselves to a quick release table option.
 
#13 ·
RT Build

Even if you build your own Table as you need it, you can have a steel top and still be able to carry it around. Lee Valley Tools have a VERITAS Table system that works well with almost any router you choose.
Veritas® Router Table System - Lee Valley Tools
Hope this link works for you.
As you can see the center discs can accommodate almost any size cutter you might desire.
I've had my VERITAS system for 10 years. Best investment I've done in woodworking.
 
#14 ·
My Router Table Setup

Hi Richard,

I bought my setup quite a few years ago from Woodpeck.com.

I have a 27x43 table with a miter slot. I bought the Incra Twin Linear (now called the Incra Super System).

I have a Milwaukee 5625 - 3 1/4 HP router. It is a massive machine and I am well pleased with it. I have the Woodpeck Quick Lift and I also like it, because it lets me make quick bit changes above the table.

I bought the Woodpeck leg set and it has a mobile base to go with it. It also has a dust collection box that collects dust around the router.

I have configured the fences to have slots for other jigs and featherboards for safety.

Good luck with your choice.
 
#15 ·
As I understand OP
1 willing to buy your dream table
2 Desire to develop limited skill set

There are several advocates for different approaches IMHO building your RT is a great skill set developer The PC 7518 is pricey but a horse and fits most lifts. Cost benefit I chose a Triton over a lift and a PC 7518. If I were to buy a lift it would be the jessem side winder I don't trust electric readouts but I'm old but others here love the power lifts. But either way go with an aluminum Plate You can buy a top plate and fence and build the cabinet as a way to learn But its very critical that you have fun
 
#17 ·
My first router purchase was a DW618 Kit. Amazon.com: DEWALT DW618B3 12 Amp 2-1/4 Horsepower Plunge Base and Fixed Base: Home Improvement You can do a lot with this kit.

It has served me well and has excellent dust collection. Getting a plunge base for handheld routing makes a lot of sense, especially for a beginner. My next purchase was the "baby" dewalt kit, the DW611. Very nice and I've used it tons, both the plunge and fixed base.

Recently I purchased a Triton TR1000 because I'm building a router table and wanted the function to raise and lower it in the table. My table is very basic and after much deliberation I decided to spend less on the table and get another router. I'm making one out of 2x4's and a melamine top.

Though I like the Dewalt kit, I think there are equally good routers made by Bosch, Porter Cable, etc. I just liked the DW kit and it was a good price around the holidays. But I do recommend the kits to start because of the plunge bases.

In the weeks leading up to father's day in the U.S. there are a lot of tool sales if you are looking to maximize your money, that's often a good time to buy.
 
#18 ·
Use the PC7518 router Motor in a lift. You can buy just the motor without the fixed base. There is also a plunge version of the 7518 3.25hp router, but I'm not sure of the model #. Two words: Incra and Woodpeckers. They are my #1 pick for router fence/table units and router lifts. #2 choice is Jessum. Use the PC 7518 motor in whatever lift you use. Don't waste money on a "starter" setup, try to get the best that you can afford, even if you have to save up for a while. You will be glad you did, in that you will not have to "upgrade.
 
#19 ·
Here is mine. I made it myself! Actually, it is the third top I have built over the past few years. But this one is special. :dance3:

Adjustable Height Workstation/Dual router setup
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/46562-adjustable-height-workstation-router-table-more.html

You don't necessarily have to have a miter slot if all you intend to do is clamp featherboards to it.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/48798-router-table-featherboard-jig.html

And here is some reading for you if you are considering the Bosch 1617 combo.
http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/56617-bosch-1617-evspk-2-25-hp-router-combo-kit.html

Good luck in your quest.
And welcome aboard.
Mike
 
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