Features for Table-mounted Router? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Features for Table-mounted Router?

I've just built a table saw/router workstation, about 6' x 3', 3/4" phenolic top, angle iron frame. Now I need to find another router for dedicated installation. I already have 4, but don't want to use any of them here. I know I want at least 2 HP, maybe 3 HP and 1/4" AND 1/2" collets.

Can anyone tell me the benefit of using a plunge router in a table?

Bit changing without removing the router is important - Correct?

I can reach inside the cabinet to do macro adjustments. Micro adjustments from the top would make work a lot easier - Agree?

I intend to mount the router directly to the underside of the table. I don't see any need for a removable mounting plate or a seperate lift system.

Am I missing something?

Obvious question - your suggestions for make/model that has the features that you think I need?

I've heard good things about a PC 892 - changing bits from the top, micro adjustment from the top. What others that don't break the bank?

Thanks in advance,
robert
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 08:42 PM
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I have a PC 890 in my cabinet. With the adjuster it works great.
I would suggest either using an insert, or rout out the underside of where you are going to mount it. 3/4" takes a lot of the possible height away.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 03:26 PM
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Hi rbrandt
Welcome to the forum. I think you will want to either use an isert, so you can lift the router out to change bits, or you might want to look at a router lift. The router lifts are a little pricy for my requirements, but inserts are cheap enough, and make it a lot easier to make your adjustments/bit changes.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 04:08 PM
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Robert, I have the Triton 2 1/4 on my table. This machine was made to be mounted on a table and has power to spare. It has above table bit change feature using one offset wrench, collet safety lock on the switch (The switch has to be in the off position to lock collet and change bits), 1/2 and 1/4 collets, above table macro adjustment, and it comes with a lot of extras. Plus it works fine without having to remove the springs from the plunge mechanism, for me at least.

I don't think there is any benefit of plunge over fixed on a table, or vise versa. It's just a matter of personal preference.

As for mounting to the table without a plate... Don't! As AxlMyk said, you will loose a full 3/4" of bit depth and I don't think you will be happy with that at all. Also, with the plate, you can remove the router from the table to clean or adjust it without having to remove the mounting screws, plus the plate has insert rings for diffrent size bits where as with just a hole in the table you are stuck with a huge hole in your table... I could go on and on with good reasons why you should use a plate.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:02 PM
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Welcome to the forums Robert.




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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 12:16 AM
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As curious George said, I love my Triton. I have the 3 1/4 hp model that doesn't come with the above table height adjustment but I don't miss it either. I also believe the advice offered regarding the insert plate is, simply put, good advice. I removed the plunge spring right out of the box so I can't say if it is an advantage or not but can say it works very well without it. I'm sure there's many choices that will work just as well, maybe better, but I'm totally sold on my Triton. Bit change is as simple as it gets with the Triton. Btw, I noticed that your table top is , well, big. May I ask what your plans are for this setup? Might help others here give you the answer your looking for. Good luck.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Table top is as big as it is for several reasons: I've got 51 1/2" between the fence and the TS blade, it doubles as an assemble table, it allows drawers from the front that the end, I can work the router from the front or the right side (wich provides a very long outfeed), and that's the size of the piece of phenolic that I could get

About the comments that I'll loose 3/4" capacity if I mount a router directly to the underside of the table: If I cut a BIG hole for a plate, won't I loose probably 3/8" anyway? I'm not agruing, just trying to understand.

As for "plus the plate has insert rings for diffrent size bits." I can make inserts to plug into the phenolic.

Curiousgeorge sounds like what I'm looking for with the Triton 2 1/4. "above table bit change feature using one offset wrench" sounds great. I guess if a router with all of the features your looking for is ALSO a plunge router, it doesn't mean you need to use that feature!

robert
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 05:06 PM
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HI Rbrant,
A table top can be any size you want it to be. I agree, larger the better, simply due to the fact that you have support and as you've pointed out, assembly purposes.

I suggest you take a good look at OP's table top and look at Rocklers tables too. These will give you a very good idea on how you may wish to go for mounting. You won't be dissapointed if you go with a plate instead of mounting directly to the table.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 11:53 AM
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This may sound a little silly to some, but if you have your router plate mounted, and decide to mount additional routers[you indicated you have four] you would be able to do multiple operations by changing the routers and plates out, without losing your settings. It seems logical to me.

Gerry
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 01:21 PM
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Not silly at all. That would work.

George
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